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November's Tri-Cities Wine Festival didn't award a record 23 gold medals because the judges were an easy mark. It was because the wines were just that good.

The medal total is a testimonial to how good Pacific Northwest wines have become.

Four of the judges - Dan Berger, Chuck Keagle, Rebecca Murphy and Heidi Yorkshire - have all judged at the prestigious Los Angeles County Fair, where they see hundreds of the nation's top wines.

The fifth judge was Rob Bigelow, one of Seattle's leading wine sommeliers, who has uncorked a few thousand bottles himself over the years.

Bigelow; Berger, who writes for the Los Angeles Times; Keagle, who owns a series of Southern California steak houses; Murphy, who runs the Dallas Morning News wine judging; and Heidi Yorkshire, who writes about wine for The Oregonian of Portland, came away impressed.

It was truly an international gold rush because British Columbia's Okanagan Valley wineries took eight of the 23 golds; Washington netted 11; Oregon three; and Idaho one.

Jackson-Triggs Vintners of Oliver, British Columbia, took best of show with a stunning pinot blanc, but several of the other gold medal wines were serious contenders.

It's difficult to find British Columbia wines in the Tri-Cities, but Rich Slocum of Wine Works in Kennewick says he's attempting to obtain a few of the gold medal winners.

Here's a list of the gold medal wines and some of the judges' comments, including this writer, who was a silent nonvoting judge (all prices in U.S. dollars):

Jackson-Triggs Vintners 1999 pinot blanc, Okanagan Valley - Best of show with delicious and complex flavors of lemon and tropical fruit and a right-on crispness for a perfect match with seafood. $10.

Tinhorn Creek Vineyards 1998 cabernet franc, Okanagan Valley - Very smooth and pleasant with sandalwood and blueberry overtones. It will stand out at any table. $13.25.

Dunham Cellar 1998 cabernet sauvignon, Columbia Valley - A very young but delicious cabernet with bright cherry fruit, essences of cedar, Java pepper, ripe plums and smooth tannins. $45.

Wineglass Cellars 1987 cabernet sauvignon, Yakima Valley - Lots of fruit and vanilla oak with good tannins for aging. $21.

Canoe Ridge Vineyards 1999 chardonnay, Columbia Valley - An excellent overall chardonnay with tropical fruit, good crispness and well balanced. $12.50.

Willamette Valley Vineyards 1998 chardonnay Willamette Valley Estate - Delicious, full-bodied, toasty oak aromas and a smooth, lingering finish. $8.50.

Three Rivers Winery 1999 chardonnay, Columbia Valley - Oak spice followed by mineral flavors and nice fruit finish. A good food wine. $14.

Hawthorne Mountain Vineyards 1998 Ehrenfelser ice wine, Okanagan Valley - Honey in a glass with citrus and pineapple flavors and a delicious finish. Residual sugar 27.4 percent. $27.

Jackson-Triggs Vintners 1999 riesling ice wine, Okanagan Valley - Incredible sweet favors of oranges and fruit. "An apple créme brûlee," said one judge. Nice botrytis. Residual sugar 25.4 percent. $42.

Kiona Vineyards 1999 lemberger, Washington - The oldest Washington maker of this variety is still the best. Rich berry fruit and meat flavors with a lingering, complex finish. $10.

L'Ecole No. 41 1998 merlot, Columbia Valley - Lots of blackberries, easy drinking with a soft, flavorful finish. $24.

Chateau Ste. Michelle 1997 merlot, Columbia Valley reserve - Another smooth, round merlot with hints of berries and cherries. Long finish. $18.

Tinhorn Creek Vineyard 1999 pinot gris, estate, Okanagan Valley - Charming tropical fruit and citrus. Excellent mouth feel and finish. $13.

Hawthorne Mountain Vineyard 1999 pinot gris, Okanagan Valley - Great balance of fruit and acids for a flavorful, crisp wine. $20.

Willamette Valley Vineyards, 1999 pinot gris, Oregon - Good fruit and aroma, touch of juniper berry, rich and flavorful. $10.

Columbia Crest 1997 red reserve, Columbia Valley - Great fruit, delicious, with a nice partnering of berries and oak. $22.

Pend d'Oreille Winery, 1998 cabernet-merlot Bistro Rouge, Washington - Lots of fruit and spice with rich chocolate layers. $9.50.

Sumac Ridge Estate 1998 red meritage, Black Sage Vineyards, Okanagan Valley - Chocolate aromas with rich flavors and nice balance of alcohol and fruit. $30.

Glen Fiona 1999 syrah, Bacchus Vineyards, Columbia Valley - Complex aromas and flavors, violets and sandalwood with lingering fruit. $17.

Bridgman 1999 syrah, Yakima Valley - Flowery aromas with oak and lots of smooth fruit on the finish. $15.

Griffin Creek, 1999 Viognier, Rogue Valley, Oregon - Nice peach fruit aromas, delicious fruity flavors and great crispness. $15.

Sumac Ridge Estate Winery 1999 white meritage, Okanagan Valley - A great combination of sauvignon blanc and semillon showing off the best of both with nice crispness and a creamy smooth, long finish. $23.

Full list of medals from the Tri-Cities Wine Festival

New releases

L'Ecole No. 41, 1999 semillon Fries Vineyard - A big, luscious wine from the Wahluke Slope with some oak. Lots of spice and a creamy apricot essence with a lingering finishing. $21. To be released in December.

Hoodsport 1998 gewürztraminer, Yakima Valley - An outstanding wine with delightful spice and fruit character, including crisp, unsweetened grapefruit. A bright and delicious wine with 2.4 percent residual sugar. $10.99.

Hoodsport 1999 Johannisberg riesling - Tasty fruit with an attractive mouth feel. Long on apples and tropical fruit touches. $10.99.

Gordon Brothers nonvintage spiceling - This Pasco winery is offering a blend of gewürztraminer and riesling that shows a mix of interesting flavors, including honeysuckle, grapefruit and cookie spice. $7.99.

King Estate 1997 pinot noir reserve - A fine Willamette Valley pinot starting with earthy aromas and followed by smooth fruit ending with cherry jam. The finish is long and memorable. $35.

Lorane Valley 1997 chardonnay - The second label of King Estate. This Oregon wine is a most pleasant drink with good aromas, flavors and acids and ample bits of apples and peaches. $9.95.

Lorane Valley 1997 pinot noir Oregon - Made in the lighter style with bright fruit backed by charming oak. Raspberry flavors. A good everyday pinot. $11.95.

Bob Woehler has been writing about grapes and wines of the Pacific Northwest since 1978. His columns appear twice monthly in the Tri-City Herald in Tri-Cities, Wash. and in Wine Press Northwest.

Send e-mail to Bob Woehler

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