Just a Little Patience,
Yeah…Yeah…
By Andrew B. Campbell
Ever hear the old saying “Wine gets better with
age”? That is what wine needs…time. Time to harvest the
grapes. Time to crush them. Time to ferment. Shall I go on?
First of all, it takes time to even grow grapevines! Many apple
growers in Washington State are discovering this as they have been
tearing out their apple trees to plant grapes (have you noticed how
low apple prices are?). They are taking their chances though,
because where their apple trees were producing fruit, new grapes
vines take between four and eight years to establish themselves and
produce quality fruit. However, those Washington farmers who did
make the leap of faith and plant grapes early on are now reaping
huge rewards from the grape production. Those who are still
struggling…have patience, wine supply still hasn’t met the demand
and prices are still soaring because of that.
When the vine is producing quality fruit, you have to wait until
the grapes ripen and attain the proper sugar levels before
harvesting. Harvest grapes that don’t have the proper sugar levels
and the acidity in them will surely make you pucker! Good winemakers
know the exact time when to harvest for proper ripeness and balance
of acid to fruit. The only way to do this is taste testing in the
vineyards. And patience.
After attaining the proper ripeness and actually harvesting the
fruit, the fresh grapes are gently collected into a
large
steel tank or huge oak barrel and then crushed. There are a few ways
to crush the grapes. There are special machines with large screws
that break the skins to gently crush the wine and the juice flows
away (if it is a white wine) and there are machines that press the
grapes to a flattened ("highly extracted") pulp. There are
winemakers that even crush grapes using just the weight of the
grapes themselves for the rarest drops! As mentioned above the white
wine juice is completely removed from skin contact. Red wine juice
stays in complete maceration (skin contact) for up to three weeks in
the storage tank or barrel, requiring a little more patience.
Okay, the juice is crushed from the grape, now how does
fermentation take place? Naturally, of course! Fermentation is a
natural process that does not need human intervention at all, except
for the above-mentioned steps. What happens in the miracle of
fermentation is the natural yeasts on the grapes (or specific
strains of yeast that the winemaker introduces) eat the sugars in
the juice. They convert the sugars into some parts alcohol, and
other parts carbon dioxide. The CO2 evaporates
into the air. When the yeasts are done working, Voila! You have
wine. But it does not happen overnight. The fermentation process can
take three days to three weeks. More patience.
Are we done, can we drink our fermented wine now? Well yes, but
it will be disgustingly gross, kind of like drinking fermented apple
juice left in the ‘fridge too long. The fermented wine may now be
blended with other Cuvées (wines/blends) to make a final Cuvée ready
for aging in a steel tank or oak barrel to develop balance, depth,
etc. Wine can be in the barrel for up to three, four or even five
years. Historically, because it takes so long for the finished
product
to become available to the public, only the highest quality wines
are in the barrel for that long. Even then the barrel product will
taste different than the finished product.
In some areas of the world, wines that are finished and bottled
still are not allowed to the public. Those areas require bottle age
time, sometimes up to two years worth! Take for example the Brunello
di Montalcino Riserva from Italy. This wine is required by Italian
law to be barrel aged for 3.5 years, then aged in the bottle until
total age is 5 years from harvest time. Granted, these are great
wines, and in some vintages (’90, 95) can age for quite a few years.
But so much time! Still more patience.
Time…is of the essence in wine. While it is one thing to buy wine
and wait for it too fully mature to drink, it is another to just get
it in the bottle. The steps given here are simplified: there is so
much more activity than what is described here in modern
winemaking--and it is not something that is rushed. So, when you are
opening your next bottle of wine, remember the time it took and the
patience the winemaker exercised to develop the wine. You may find
yourself enjoying that wine just a little bit more!
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