Washington
Wines Stand Out at Seattle Tasting
By Bob Woehler
A potpourri of wines recently tasted has
resulted in a bunch of gems to pass on.
My last two wine columns have been about wine events - the
Yakima Spring Barrel weekend and the spring opening of the Walla
Walla Valley - so, specific wines took a back seat to the
wineries.
But not this time.
Some fine new wines were sampled at the Taste Washington in
April:
Januik Winery 1999 merlot - The first release of Mike
Januik, former head winemaker at Chateau Ste. Michelle. It's a
very smooth red, showing off the complexities and fruit of Canoe
Ridge vineyards. $35.
Chatter Creek 1998 cabernet sauvignon, Sagemoor Vineyard
- This winery near the University of Washington is producing a
dandy blend of cabernet and 24 percent cabernet franc. The aromas
are of vanilla and oak followed by rich currant fruit. $20.
Pepper Bridge Winery 1998 cabernet sauvignon Walla Walla
Valley - Another new wine and winery with big expectations.
The cab has very pronounced oak characteristics with beautiful
black cherry flavors and even a hint of sage spice. $60.
Matthews Cellars 1998 red table wine, Yakima Valley - A
premium blend of 53 percent cabernet sauvignon, 28 percent merlot
and 19 percent cabernet franc. It is round, rich and loaded with
berries in the classic Bordeaux style. $40.
Andrew Will 1999 merlot, Seven hills Vineyard - Gobs of
up-front fruit, fresh tasting with good flavors and aromas and a
lingering finish. $40.
In March, I had the opportunity to get together with Brian
Carter, winemaker extraordinaire and vice president of Washington
Hills Cellars in Sunnyside, to taste some wonderful old vintages
and some new vintages.
Joining the tasting were writers and editors from Wine Press
Northwest magazine and Harry Alhadeff, president and founder of
Washington Hills.
Washington Hills also makes the premium Apex as well as the
fine line of Bridgman wines.
A few of my favorites:
Washington Hills 1999 merlot - An outstanding
inexpensive merlot with emphasis on fruit, including blackberries,
a bit of pepper and a touch of tar. A rich red for summer release.
$11.
Washington Hills 1999 cabernet-merlot - Another
outstanding inexpensive red. Smooth offering chocolate, dark fruit
and berries. $10.
Bridgman 1998 cabernet franc Yakima Valley - Chalky dry
and flavorful, showing dark fruit and vanilla complemented by
smoky oak. $16.
Bridgman 1998 merlot Columbia Valley - Very rich, dark
chocolate-covered cherries, vanilla extract and great acids. Great
with a ribeye steak. $16.
Apex 1998 syrah Yakima Valley - Intense, smoky oak
aromas lead to an outstanding wine with richness and subtle
flavors such as ripe red fruit jam and allspice. $40.
Apex 1997 merlot Columbia Valley - Silky with integrated
raspberry and chocolate flavors followed by vanilla and toasted
caramel. $35.
Also watch for a special new release under Carter's signature,
scheduled for sometime this fall. This Bordeaux blend of 60
percent merlot and the rest cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc
has intense flavors including chocolate and vanilla and is very
smooth. $60.
New releases
Seven Hills 2000 white riesling, Columbia Valley - Nice
balance of fruit and acids with just the right amount of sweetness
at 1.8 percent. Honeysuckle aromas followed by a crisp, sweet gala
apple. $9.
Seven Hills 1998 cabernet sauvignon, Klipsun Vineyards -
A bright, juicy cabernet from a great Red Mountain vineyard.
Currants, leather, tobacco and chocolate with vanilla and spice.
$28.
Sandhill 1998 cabernet sauvignon, Red Mountain Vineyard
Yakima Valley - Chocolate, red currants and chewy oak with
supple tannins and an outstanding rich, full-bodied flavor. $28.
Canoe Ridge Vineyard 1998 cabernet sauvignon Columbia Valley
- Another outstanding cabernet. Robust oak followed by ripe Bing
cherries, a touch of vanilla spice and a big, smooth chocolate
finish. $28.
Preston 1998 cabernet sauvignon reserve Columbia Valley
- Again an outstanding cab. Smoky oak, good berry fruit with a
coffee and American oak finish. Great with a big steak. $22.
Columbia Crest 1999 semillon - Crisp with
chardonnay-like finish, bits of tropical fruit and peaches. $9.
Chateau Ste. Michelle 1999 sauvignon blanc Horse Heaven
Vineyards - The standard by which other sauvignon blancs are
judged. Outstanding with semillonlike herb aromas, lots of oak and
a touch of fruit, including figs. Rich, lasting finish. $14.
Columbia Winery 2000 Cellarmaster riesling Columbia Valley
- Long the standard for medium sweet riesling. Outstanding floral
aromas, touches of honey fruit, including tropical and a crisp,
juicy fruit finish. $7.
Three Rivers Winery 1999 merlot, Columbia Valley - Sweet
oak and rich vanilla beginning along with coffee, plums,
chocolate, cherries and a long, smooth finish. $28.
Woodward Canyon 1999 merlot Columbia Valley -
Outstanding with a wonderful beginning of vanilla extract aromas
leading to cherries, cedar, ripe plums and jam flavors. $37.50.
Kiona Vineyards 2000 late harvest muscat, Yakima Valley
- Outstanding peach aromas, along with vanilla spice. Delicate
flavors of citrus and a faint touch of golden raisins. Residual
sugar is 11 percent. $11 for half-sized bottle.
***
Anyone looking for an unusual or hard-to-get bottle of wine
should consider the Mid-Columbia Symphony Perfect Harmony fine
wine auction and dinner June 2 at the Doubletree Hotel in Pasco.
Such unusual items as magnums of Leonetti, Andrew Will and
Bookwalter wines will be featured along with other special donated
items.
Tickets that include a gourmet meal with wine are $75. Call
943-6602 for ticket information.

Bob Woehler
has been writing about grapes and wines of the Pacific Northwest
since 1978. His columns appear twice monthly in the Tri-City
Herald in Tri-Cities, Wash. and in Wine
Press Northwest.
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e-mail to Bob Woehler
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