Washington Wineries Churning Out Cabernet Franc
By Bob Woehler
Cabernet franc is often a gentler relative to
its robust first cousin, cabernet sauvignon. Because of the softer
fruity approach, more than two dozen Pacific Northwest wineries
have decided to produce this fresh red wine.
In France's famous Bordeaux region, cabernet franc is often
blended with cabernet sauvignon to soften and smooth out the rough
qualities in its more aggressive cousin.
Now, the Pacific Northwest is proving to be an ideal setting for
cabernet franc as a variety that can stand alone.
Wineries in our region have already found a niche market for the
supple and attractive qualities of the variety.
The wine hasn't escaped notice of editors at
Wine Press
Northwest magazine, who recently conducted a tasting.
And many of those who make the variety are fans as well,
including Clay Mackey of Chinook Winery in Prosser. "It's very
drinkable, relatively low in tannins, lower acids and, when young,
is easy to drink with great fruit characteristics."
Chinook also makes a cabernet franc rosé, and a few other
wineries are finding the inherent fruitiness of the grape also lends
beautifully to a lighter-style dry rosé.
Some of the top cabernet francs in the tasting panel are as
follows:
Lost Mountain Winery 1999 Bacchus Vineyard, Columbia Valley,
$16 - Vanilla and oak with great black cherry flavors and rich
dark chocolate leading to a big, satisfying finish.
Duck Pond Cellars 1997 Fries Desert Wind Vineyard, Columbia
Valley, $40 - Wonderful perfume aromas, long on fruit, including
strawberries, chewy and big, bits of chocolate, lengthy finish.
Barnard Griffin 1999 Wahluke Slope, Columbia Valley, $24 -
Great vanilla aromas followed by bold black cherry flavors and
touches of chocolate. Warm tannins and delicious.
W.B. Bridgman 1999, Yakima Valley, $13 - Cola and
chocolate. Very approachable with nice blackberry qualities. Mellow
and easy drinking.
Arbor Crest Wine Cellars 1998 Cameo Reserve, Washington, $15
- Smoky aromas, rich black fruit with great concentrations of oak
and berries. Sweet tannins and a clean, satisfying finish.
Tefft Cellars 1997 Al Carr Vineyard, Yakima Valley, $25 -
Nice dried herbs with a bit of mint. Bold tannins, big berries and a
rich mouth feel.
Hogue Cellars 1997 Genesis, Columbia Valley, $16 - A nice
vanilla oak beginning with fine fruit compote flavors and touches of
tobacco. Let it breathe a bit before drinking.
Columbia Winery 1997 Red Willow Vineyard, Yakima Valley, $17
- Clean black fruit, nice vanilla and oak beginning with bits of
tar, chocolate, cherries and plums.
Pend d'Oreille Winery 1998, Columbia Valley, $16 - Ripe
fruit with some bittersweet chocolate and sweet spices. Aromas of
smoky oak.
Walla Walla Vintners 1999, Walla Walla Valley, $25 -
Classic varietal aromas, including oak and tobacco. Strong up-front
flavors, cherries and vanilla. Great with a rib eye steak.
Badger Mountain Vineyards 1998, Columbia Valley, $12 -
Cedar with soft fruit flavors and an easy-drinking finish.
Chinook Wines 1998, Yakima Valley, $22 - Spicy with a bit
of licorice. Good fruit and a bit of pepper and olives. It would go
well with barbecued lamb.
Preston Premium Wines 1998, Columbia Valley, $17 -
Flavorful, slight carmel aromas, dried fruit, ripe plums and good
chocolate.
***
Silver Lake Winery of Woodinville has moved into the Covey
Run Vintners facility near Zillah in the Yakima Valley. The tasting
room will be open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily. Covey Run currently
has no tasting room but is considering opening a new facility in the
valley, likely near Sunnyside.
Claar Cellars of Pasco also has opened a Yakima Valley
tasting room at the old Zillah Oakes facility along Interstate 82 in
Zillah. The room is open from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily. The winery
north of Pasco is open by appointment and for special events.
Bob Woehler
has been writing about grapes and wines of the Pacific Northwest
since 1978. His columns appear twice monthly in the Tri-City
Herald in Tri-Cities, Wash. and in Wine
Press Northwest.
Send
e-mail to Bob Woehler
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