 Seeing
the World Through Rosé Colored Glasses
By Stephen Carroll
Let’s face it, rosé wines have an image problem. For
most people, Rosé is synonymous with the sweet jug wine of the
1970’s or the “white zinfandel” favored by beginning wine drinkers.
Fortunately for America, the pink beacon of traditional dry Rosé
continues to shine across the Atlantic. In Spain, France and Italy,
these wines hold a respectable position in the pantheon of wine. Yet
this alternative universe of dry Rosé is still unknown to many wine
lovers.
These lovely wines are bright and fresh like whites, yet with
slightly more body. Yet they always remaining less serious and more
refreshing than red wines. Fruit-filled aromas sweetly tease but the
finish is crisp and dry with the barest hint of tannin. Their
striking pink color also epitomizes the carefree spirit of summer.
 Rosé wines are typically made from the first pressing of a red
wine grape and may be made from any type or blend of grapes used to
make red wine. After the grapes are pressed the juice is left in
contact with the skins for 4 to 12 hours to produce the
characteristic pink tint and desired flavors. The results vary from
bone dry wines with mineral flavors to off-dry wines loaded with
aromas of strawberry, raspberry and violets.
Nearly every wine making region of the world produces pink wines.
Yet in the south of France and Spain are the centers for quality dry
Rosé production. It seems logical that these sun drenched regions
would develop a versatile and refreshing wine for summer drinking.
The most common grapes used to make Rosé in southern France and
Rosado in Spain are Granache/Granacha and Syrah.
As American wine makers have discovered these Rhone grape
varieties, dry Rosé wines have begun
 to be offered by a variety of
US wineries. Many of California’s “Rhone Rangers” are now turning
out tasteful and lovely pink wines. Joseph Phelps, Bonny Doon and
Zaca Mesa are all good producers of dry Rosé. Washington’s Chinook
winery also produces a lovely Cabernet Franc Rosé which
unfortunately, is produced in extremely limited quantity.
 Dry Rosé has many virtues; it is refreshing, versatile, and
usually is a great value. It pairs well with most chicken, pork,
vegetarian or seafood dishes. Served chilled, they are perfect for
picnics, a light summer dinner or just on their own.
Rosé wines are not meant for aging. Look for the most recent
vintage and drink them during the same year. Buy a mixed case at the
beginning of the summer and keep one available in the refrigerator
at all times for spontaneous drinking.
Summer is a time for relaxation. So keep an open mind, put on
your Rosé tinted glasses and prepare to be charmed.
A selection of widely available dry Rosé wines:
 Chateau Routas Rouvière Rosé 2000 (France) $10
A standard bearer for dry French Rosé. Made from a blend of
Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault. Dry, elegant and crisp with the barest
hint of fruit.
Sumarroca 2000 (Spain) $9
Made from a blend of Tempranillo, Syrah, Grenache and Merlot. Crisp
and dry with a mineral and cranberry finish.
Valdemar 2000 (Spain) $9
Crisp and dry rosé from Rioja, with a hint of strawberry.
Chateau Grande Cassagne 2000 (France) $9
Displays nice fruit and body while staying impeccably dry and
elegant.
Joseph Phelps Grenache Rosé 1999 (California) $11
More fruity and full bodied than most European Rosé but still crisp
and refreshing.
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