Prosser's Chinook Winery True to Descriptions
By Bob Woehler
Crisp, food-friendly semillons and sauvignon
blancs, flavorful chardonnay and smooth, easy-to-drink reds are
some of the adjectives Chinook Winery of Prosser uses to describe
its new releases. And you know what? Their descriptions hit the
nail on the head.
I've always been a fan of Chinook wines because they are so
straightforward, clean and food-friendly.
The current array of wines is no exception, including the
delightful cabernet franc rose, a perfect wine for picnics or a
summertime backyard repast.
Winemaker Kay Simon and her grape-growing husband, Clay Mackey,
are celebrating their 17th year in a converted old farmhouse outside
Prosser.
Chinook is a small winery with a big following. When you go to
taste wines there, either Kay or Clay is on hand to greet you.
Their current lineup includes four reds, three whites and the
rose.
Chinook likes to add a couple of extra years of aging on its
cabernet sauvignon and merlot before releasing them.
2001 Cabernet Franc Rosé, Yakima Valley, $20 - A
delightful picnic wine with great character. Nice berry components,
a dry touch, fruity and crisp.
2000 Sauvignon Blanc, Yakima Valley, $15 - Light herbs and
orchard fruit aromas. Nicely balanced with a crisp, food-friendly
finish.
2000 Semillon, Yakima Valley, $15 - Lush with just the
right amount of oak. Citrus and cream soda flavors. Kay Simon says
this will stand up to spicy food, including salsa.
1999 Chardonnay, Yakima Valley, $20 - An excellent food
chardonnay with great balance of oak and fruit. Clean tropical fruit
flavors.
1996 Red Table Wine, Yakima Valley, $16 - A best buy for
an aged cabernet. Concentrated fruit with balanced oak and a good
finish make this a fine wine to serve with red meat.
1999 Cabernet Franc, Yakima Valley, $20 - Dry and
flavorful with hints of black pepper and berry fruit. Soft and
consumer-friendly.
1998 Merlot, Yakima Valley, $22 - This is a rich, cherry
fruit merlot with nice oak elements. Smooth, ripe berry flavors.
1997 Cabernet Sauvignon, Yakima Valley, $32 - Superb
balance of oak and fruit starting with understated berry flavors
along with nice plums. Dry and European style with a great finish.
This is a well-aged cabernet ready to drink.
New Releases
These wines were tasted by the Wine Press Northwest magazine panel.
Tasters do not know either the winery or the type of wine when
reviewing. A wine must receive a unanimous vote to gain an
outstanding rating.
Gordon Brothers Cellars 1999 Merlot, Columbia Valley, $18
- Nice oak and currant characteristics. Some herbal and black olive
components with leather and espresso.
Columbia Winery 1998 Cabernet Franc, Red Willow Vineyard,
Yakima Valley, $23 - Cherry pipe tobacco and blueberry nose.
Very smooth, a touch drying but a nice farewell.
Gordon Brothers Cellars 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia
Valley, $22 - Outstanding. Vanilla and oak followed by nice plum
and dried black fruit. A hint of licorice and up-front mocha. Long,
bittersweet chocolate finish.
Leonetti Cellar 2000 Merlot, Columbia Valley, $55 -
Outstanding. A big, fruity delicious wine with huge spicy oak aromas
along with vanilla beans. Jammy berry flavors and very balanced
tannins for a soft concentrated mouth feel. This wine and the other
Leonetti wines were evaluated at the winery.
Leonetti Cellar 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley,
$60 - Another classic cabernet from Gary Figgins, a master of
his craft. Begins with oak and chocolate aromas, giving away to nice
raspberry flavors, a hint of herbs, supple tannins and a lingering
finish.
Leonetti Cellar 2000 Sangiovese, Walla Walla Valley, $55 -
Cherries and oak with concentrated vanilla. A big, juicy red with
huge fruit and chocolate espresso touches.
Maryhill Winery 2001 Celilo Vineyards Riesling, Columbia
Valley, $14 - Lots of pear overtones with crisp, fresh, fruity
essences, including some tropical and banana. Crisp and medium-sweet
finish.
Covey Run Vintners 2000 Chenin Blanc, Washington, $7 -
Outstanding. Classic, tasty fruit chenin blancs used to be a staple
of Washington wines in the industry's early days. This is a
throwback to yesteryear showing tons of apple fruit and orange peel
with a hint of herbs at the end. It's rich, crisp and sweet enough
to please the experienced and new wine drinkers alike.
Covey Run Vintners 2001 Riesling, Washington, $7 -
Outstanding. Gorgeous tropical fruit and extra crisp. Bold
tangerines and tart grapefruit flavors with a subtle and lasting
finish.
Hedges Cellars, 2000 CMS, Columbia Valley, $11 -
Outstanding. A tasty blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah.
Chewy, dark chocolate, heavy berries and coffee. Nice oak aromas and
a good finish.
Walla Walla Vintners 2000 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley, $25
- Outstanding. Vanilla and toast aroma along with tobacco and
chocolate. Big-time cherry flavors with lots of other fruit. Long,
supple tannins. Concentrated, lingering finish.

Bob Woehler
has been writing about grapes and wines of the Pacific Northwest
since 1978. His columns appear twice monthly in the Tri-City
Herald in Tri-Cities, Wash. and in Wine
Press Northwest.
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e-mail to Bob Woehler
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