 McCrea
Cellars Shining on State Wine Scene
By Bob Woehler
McCrea Cellars, one of the rising stars on the
Washington wine scene, excels at Syrah, making up to five
different styles.
Winemaker Doug McCrea is a member of the Rhone Rangers, a group
of mostly California winemakers dedicated to the making and
fostering of wines that originated from the Rhône Valley of France.
Besides Syrah, McCrea makes a Viognier, a white wine, and is
dabbling with more exotic Rhône varieties including Mourvedre,
Marsanne, Rousaune and Counoise.
All of these varieties are grown in the Rhône River Valley on the
opposite side of France from the more famous Burgundy and Bordeaux
regions.
Rhône wines are know for robust, darkly colored, fruity reds and
full-flavored whites that start with the Cotes du Rhône in the north
and wind through the famous Hermitage. This region is named after a
French nobleman who joined the Crusades and built a castle and
became a hermit when he returned to France.
The wine region ends at the Chateauneuf du Pape, which was the
castle of an early day pope not far from where the Rhône empties
into the Mediterranean Sea at Marseilles.
But enough of history and geography talk, let's get on to the
McCrea wines.
McCrea has his winery at Rainier, a tiny rural town near Olympia,
but sources all his grapes from excellent vineyards in Eastern
Washington, including Red Mountain, the Yakima Valley and new
vineyards in the Horse Heaven Hills near Alderdale.
He's been making finely crafted syrahs probably longer than
anyone else in the Pacific Northwest except David Lake of Columbia
Winery, who is credited with making the first Washington syrah back
in the late 1980s.
"The one thing that stands out to me with a finely crafted syrah
is it is immediately pleasurable and attractive," he said.
McCrea Cellars 2000 Amerique Syrah, Yakima Valley, $34 -
Made of a mix of American and French oak, hence the name. Upfront
toasty oak aromas with distinctive Australian Shiraz overtones.
Mellow and juicy. Voted outstanding by Wine Press Northwest panel.
McCrea Cellars 2000 Boushey Grande Cote Vineyards, Yakima
Valley, $35 - Nice coffee aromas along with mocha and sandalwood
spice. Rich blueberry flavors. Smooth with a great finish.
McCrea Cellars 2000 Ciel du Cheval Vineyards Syrah, $35 -
Made from Red Mountain grapes. This is a big dark-colored wine with
tremendous muscle. Rich blackberries and sweet plums are matched
with nice toasty oak. So jammy you'll want to spread it on your hot
cakes.
McCrea Cellars 1999 Cuvée Orleans Syrah, $50 - The top of
the line that is co-fermented with a bit of Viognier. Very aromatic
with raspberry jam, lots of depth. Very youthful but smooth and
pleasing.
McCrea Cellars 2000 Syrah, Yakima Valley, $35 - Over the
top with flavors and aromas. Classic jammy mid palate with a creamy
chocolate finish. Voted outstanding by Wine Press Northwest panel.
McCrea Cellars 2000 Viognier, Yakima Valley, $21 - White
flower aromas with hints of jasmine, honeysuckle and lichee nut and
bosch pears. A complex palate pleaser.
McCrea Cellars 2000 LaMer, Yakima Valley, $14 - A blend of
Viognier and Chardonnay has a distinctive characteristics with
exotic fruit mixed with peach and apricot. Nice, crisp and rich. A
great match for rich shellfish such as lobster, scallops and crab.
McCrea Cellars 2000 Elerding Vineyard Chardonnay, Yakima
Valley, $33 - Barrel fermented in French oak. Rich and full
flavors like a fresh Hawaiian pineapple. Has essence of butter and
lemons to match well with foods.
McCrea 2001 Vin Rosé, Yakima Valley, $14 - A fruity
pleasing blend of viognier and grenache with a splash of syrah.
Serve chilled for a picnic. It has a nice, strawberry component and
a satisfying, crisp farewell.
New releases
Barnard Griffin Winery 2001 Chardonnay, Columbia Valley, $11
- Outstanding! Tasty toasty oak aromas marry with lovely tropical
fruit flavors. Rich and buttery with good acids and structure to
tingle the palate.
Hyatt Vineyards 2001 Riesling, Yakima Valley, $8 - Nice
grapefruit aromas and flavors. Sweet and crisp with hints of pears
and peaches.
Goose Ridge Vineyard 2000 Chardonnay, Columbia Valley, $20
- The first release by a new Washington Winery near Goose Gap not
far from Richland. Toasty oak and herbaceous aromas with some citrus
and a tart finish.
Dunham Cellars 2000 Syrah, Columbia Valley, $45 -
Outstanding! Eric Dunham has the magic touch with a wide range of
reds. Light toast and inviting oak aromas give way to supple berry
flavors with a delightful farewell.
Cascade Cliffs 2000 Nebbiolo estate grown, Columbia Valley $25
- A Columbia Gorge winery that specializes in different grapes.
Earthy with sweet oak aromas. Complex raspberry and cherry flavors
laced with spices.
Columbia Winery 2001 Gewurztraminer, Columbia Valley, $7 -
Grapefruit aromas and flavors, very tangy with some tropical fruit.
A bit soft.
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2001 Pinot Gris, Columbia Valley, $13
- More crisp than anything else. It lacked real varietal fruity
flavors.
Bob Woehler
has been writing about grapes and wines of the Pacific Northwest
since 1978. His columns appear twice monthly in the Tri-City
Herald in Tri-Cities, Wash. and in Wine
Press Northwest.
Send
e-mail to Bob Woehler
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