Tri-Cities Wine Fest had Something for Every Palate
By Bob Woehler
The discovery of a nice blend of funky, different and
traditional wineries at the 24th annual Tri-Cities Wines Festival
last Saturday (Nov. 9) made for a memorable night.
Newcomers among the 70 wineries were the funky Don Quixote label
from Grandview, owned by Joe Cervantes, who was offering a pretty
darn good sweet 2001 late harvest gewurztraminer called Sweet
Dulcinea. The Don himself was presumably off tilting with windmills
elsewhere.
Not far away, Rob Dhaliwal's Samson Estates Winery, near Lynden
in Whatcom County, served up something different - some of the
tastiest berry wines I've ever sampled, including a black currant, a
blackberry and an extremely delicious raspberry. Dhaliwal promises a
wine made from hazelnuts will be out soon.
And finally, the traditional was from Moonlight Sparkling Wine
Cellars of Kennewick, which was pouring its first edition of a
sparkling wine, a 2001 gem made by Allan Pangborn, formerly of
Domaine Ste. Michelle and Korbel. The new sparkler was dry, fruity,
tasty and perfect for the holidays.
Other first-timers included Goose Ridge Vineyards, a small winery
on Dallas Road near West Richland that had two bronze medal red
wines; Buty Winery of Walla Walla Valley with two bronze medal
chardonnays; and Gold Digger Cellars, an Oroville winery just south
of the Canadian border that is starting to gain attention for fine
dessert wines, including a tasty riesling ice wine. Another
newcomer, C.R Sandidge, a label created by Ray Sandidge of Kestrel,
was awarded a silver medal for 2000 Klingele Vineyard syrah. And
Ryan Patrick Vineyards near Rock Island, just south of Wenatchee,
got silver medals for a blended 2000 red wine and for a 2001 blended
white wine.
For those with a sweet tooth, it was hard to beat the two superb
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, ice wines, including the
Jackson-Triggs 2001 riesling. Hank Sauer, facilitator for the Wine
Press Northwest tasting panel, described it as having an inviting
nose, a hint of botrytis, honey consistency, silky clean acids and
an outstanding sweet almond finish.
Hank waxed on every more about the Hawthorne Mountain Vineyards
2000 ehrenfelser, which is made from a riesling variant. "Compelling
fruit nose, revealing mid-palate with hints of honey, fresh peaches
and pears and a sweet velvet finish."
The festival judges, three from California, one from New York and
one from Vancouver, British Columbia, awarded 8 gold medals, 28
silvers and 57 bronzes.
The gold medals went to Three Rivers of Walla Walla 2000 syrah,
which also took best of show; Columbia Crest 1999 merlot reserve;
Columbia Winery 1999 cabernet sauvignon, Columbia Valley; Gray Monk
estate 2001 pinot auxerrois, Okanagan Valley; Jackson-Triggs, 2001
riesling ice wine, Okanagan Valley, Proprietors' reserve; Olympic
Cellars, 2001 Dungeness red lemberger; Russell Creek of Walla Walla,
2000 cabernet sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley; and Seven Hills of
Walla Walla, 2000 syrah, Walla Walla Valley.
Interestingly, the Three Rivers syrah was mostly made by Charlie
Hoppes of Kennewick, who left that winery earlier this year to
consult and to make wine under his own label.
All in all, he had a hand in eight medal-winning wines at the
judging.
He consulted in making the best of show Three Rivers syrah; the
two silvers for Ryan Patrick; a Three Rivers silver medal 2000
merlot; a Canon de Sol a bronze meritage red; two bronzes for Goose
Ridge 2000 syrah and 1999 meritage red, and a bronze for Three
Rivers 2001 white blend.
New Releases
The following wines were tasted by a Wine Press Northwest magazine
panel. The tasters do not know either the winery or the type of
wine. A wine must receive a unanimous vote to gain an outstanding
rating.
Covey Run Vintners 1999 Merlot, Washington, $9 - Plums and
oak, with juicy blackberries and an herbal undertone.
Columbia Crest 1999 Grand Estates Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia
Valley, $11 - One of the best inexpensive cabs around with oak
and chocolate aromas, berry flavors and a lush long finish. Smooth
and easy drinking.
Columbia Winery, 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Willow
Vineyards, Yakima Valley, $29 - Herbal and tar aromas.
Full-flavored blueberry and plums. Nice and easy finish.
Hyatt Vineyards 2001 Black Muscat, Yakima Valley, $8 -
Outstanding. Delightful rose color with aromas and flavors of
cranberries and strawberries. Right-on acids make this the perfect
picnic wine. Bring on a ham sandwich and potato salad.
Chateau Ste. Michelle 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Canoe Ridge
Estate Vineyards, Columbia Valley, $24 - Outstanding. Consistent
excellence is the hallmark of this winery. Inviting oak chocolate
and tobacco aromas. Dark cherry fruit, with smooth, pleasing tannins
and acids.
Goose Ridge Vineyard 1999 Meritage, Columbia Valley, $27 -
Outstanding. Fresh out of the gate wine from a new Tri-City area
winery. Made half from cabernet sauvignon and half from merlot, this
is a bold, dark wine with smoky oak aromas and fleshy Marionberry
and black olive flavors. It has a huge, satisfying finish.
L'Ecole No. 41 1999 Apogee Pepper Bridge Vineyards, Walla
Walla Valley, $42 - Outstanding. A tremendously flavorful blend
of 50 percent cabernet sauvignon, 46 percent merlot and 4 percent
cabernet franc. What's not to like about this blockbuster? Lovely
acidity, nice spice, and deep, rich and penetrating fruit with a
great balance.
Woodward Canyon 2000 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley, $45 - Oak
and spice aromas with a dry, fruity taste that is pleasant
throughout. Chalky tannins make this a good wine with steak.
Hogue Genesis 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $18
- A fine medium-priced red with chewy oak and charcoal aromas and
plum and berry fruit flavors. Big tannins and delicious flavors.
Bob Woehler
has been writing about grapes and wines of the Pacific Northwest
since 1978. His columns appear twice monthly in the Tri-City
Herald in Tri-Cities, Wash. and in Wine
Press Northwest.
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e-mail to Bob Woehler
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