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Feature Article
Home > Articles > Article  - Published July 2002
Best Cellars Grilling Tips
By Jens Strecker and Joshua Wesson

It’s that time of the year again! The dog days of summer are upon us, and the hot dogs of summer are on the grill – as well as other things like Alaskan Salmon, juicy steaks and burgers, barbecued chicken and crisp summer veggies. Finding the right wine match shouldn’t be too difficult.

Barbecue seems so downright American, but in fact, like so many other parts of our national identity (the Statue of Liberty; the colors of Old Glory), the word – if not the whole concept – is French. It was actually coined long ago by some Gallic gourmand who used the word to describe the process of grilling a beast from beard to tail, literally barbe-a-queue. From there, it was an easy leap across the Big Pond to our native tongue’s less graphic and more easily spelled “barbecue”.

A great wine match can make the difference in shaping your outdoor food festival, whether it’s a quiet dinner à deux, a rooftop soiree or a family outdoor outing.

Indoors or out, foods and wines partner for pretty much the same reasons that people do: either they share similar tastes, or somehow they happily contrast. Here are some tips for creating a winning match:

Same with same:
Pairing food and wines that share common flavors can be an effortless way to create a good match. For example: The slight sweetness of a fresh salmon will take on richer, more caramelized flavors when grilled, calling for a fuller bodied wine than when it is steamed, baked or sautéed. A rich Rhone-style white, a Californian Chardonnay or a lighter styled Pinot Noir could do the magic. A porterhouse steak, grilled to medium-rare perfection, is a savory study in big, rich, smoky flavors. A fuller-bodied red wine with some tannins to cut through the richness will work well. Try matching the smoky flavors from the grill and the meaty texture of the steak with a full-throttle Zinfandel from California. The same Zinfandel will also work well with barbecued chicken.

The wine/food next door:
Combining regional food and wine works well, since there is natural sense of compatibility. For example: Crushed garden-fresh tomatoes on grilled bread brushed with olive oil (aka Bruschetta) will pair perfectly with a Chianti from Tuscany. The reason for this is that the acids in the tomato sauce match the acids in the wine.

Opposites attract:
Sometimes opposite flavors attract. For example: Hot and spicy barbecue sauce, or Cajun hot sauce drizzled on grilled flank steak, chicken or fish will benefit from a fruit-filled, light-bodied red wine without a lot of tannins, or chilled fruity whites and roses.

Finally don’t forget the fizzy! With its scrubbing bubbles and palate-cleansing star power, sparkling wines and YES folks, lighter beers, naturally complement a wide variety of barbecue-inspired flavors, from salty marinades to spicy sauces and rubs. Fruity, lightly sparkling wines (Prosecco) pairs beautifully with grilled fish and shrimp while fuller-bodied sparklers and beers work well with chicken, burgers, ribs and steaks.

Best wishes for the Barbecue season from WineSquire and the Best Cellars team!

Barbecue wine picks:

Markham Zinfandel 1998 (California) $21
Scents of pipe tobacco, birch beer and nutmeg mingle with more obvious notes of black plums, cherries and cassis. On the palate the wine is rich, smooth and silky and sets the stage for a cascade of creamy red fruit flavors that take their own sweet time disappearing down the old gulliver. A lingering finish of sweet smoke and vanilla.

Chehalem 3 Vineyard Pinot Noir 2000 (Oregon) $30
Let’s face it: no other grape is capable of achieving the refinement of a fully realized Pinot Noir. This Pinot shows aromatically spiced red fruit, followed by an array of flavors ranging from cherries and cassis to black- and boysenberry.

Clos La Chance Chardonnay 1999 (California) $21
The cool, coastal climate and elevation produce Chardonnays with great acidity, along with delicious ripe flavors and aromas from plenty of sunshine. Aromas of ripe honeydew melon, crisp citrus and sweet soices due to oak aging combined with a creamy, buttery texture make that wine a must buy.

Selvapiana Chianti Rufina 1999 (Italy) $13.50
Bushels of mouth-filling flavors suggest uber-ripe black cherries, blackberries and roasted nuts. Following that with a finish of new leather and a hint of vanilla. O sole mio!

Hacienda Brut NV (California) $10
The crisp, fresh scents of citrus and lime of this wine – which seems to joy-ride on every bubble that soars from the glass – mixed with broader notes of buttered nuts and warm brioche form a lasting Champagne-like impression. Hacienda blossoms with an energy usually reserved for the drinker, not the drink.


Jens Strecker is a Contributor to WineSquire.com

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