Passover and Kosher Wine
Courtesy of
30 Second Wine Advisor
 By Robin Garr
Passover begins at sunset on March 27 this year. It
celebrates a story that is central to the Jewish faith and that is
revered by Christians and Muslims and others. The story of Moses
leading the Israelites out of bondage in search of their Promised
Land contains elements that speak to every human.
Its celebration begins with a meal called the "seder," a dinner
that invariably includes the retelling of the story of Exodus ...
unleavened bread, or matzoh ... and the consumption of four cups of
wine, with a fifth cup left unfinished on the table, traditionally
meant for the enjoyment of the Prophet Elijah.
The wine must be kosher, of course - ritually approved for
consumption by observant Jews. As the annual holy day approaches, a
number of wine-loving Jewish readers have asked that I devote a
column to a quick discussion - and a few tasting notes - about
kosher wine.
Many people think of kosher wine as a thick, sweet and grapey
drink, but this is not a religious requirement but simply a style of
kosher wine that became popular in the United States more than a
century ago, when many Jewish immigrants lived in the Northeast and
had easy access to Concord and other native American grapes with a
distinct "grape-jelly" flavor that needs sweetening to make it
palatable. Necessity became the mother of tradition, and for many
years "kosher" in wine almost always meant heavy and sweet.
But "Kosher" simply means "fit and proper" in Hebrew. Any food or
drink that conforms to Jewish dietary laws and is made under the
supervision of a rabbi may be certified and labeled as kosher. No
non-kosher product may be used to make kosher wine. This provision,
by the way, makes kosher wine of interest to vegetarians, who can be
confident that kosher wines have not used animal products for
clarification.
The wine-making equipment in kosher wineries must be used
exclusively for kosher products, and only Sabbath-observant Jews may
handle the wine throughout production, from crushing the grapes to
serving the wine. (There's an exception to this, however: If the
wine is boiled or pasteurized - "mevushal," in Hebrew - it may be
handled by anyone, Jewish or otherwise, without being rendered
unfit.)
Some kosher wines will also be labeled "made from grapes that are
not 'orla'," meaning that the vineyard followed the Talmudic
requirement of not using grapes from vines less than four years old
... a practice that, by the way, is also followed for non-ritual
reasons by many quality vineyards where the producers simply
understand that immature grapevines don't make the best wine.
In short, none of the kosher requirements prevent making wines in
an international style, and indeed, many modern kosher wines have
won awards in major competitions. And you don't have to be Jewish to
enjoy them.
For a little more information about kosher wines, see the
Manischewitz Wines website and the
Royal Wines website (click "Company Profile," then page
down to "Kosher Wine: The World's Original All-Natural Product.")
SIX KOSHER WINES
Wine lovers seeking quality kosher wines will probably have the best
luck shopping in larger cities with substantial Jewish population.
In middle-size Louisville, the selection is somewhat limited even at
the largest wine shops, and some bottles appear to have been on the
shelf for several years. The following is a representative
selection.
BARTENURA 2000 MOSCATO D'ASTI (ITALY) ($12.99) Very pale
straw; not fizzy, but many small bubbles line the glass. Light peach
scent with herbal notes. Crisp, light sweetness and snappy acidity;
low in alcohol and refreshing. Kosher for Passover. U.S. importer:
Royal Wine Corp., NYC.
GOLAN HEIGHTS WINERY 1998 "GALILEE 2000" GALILEE REGION
(ISRAEL) SAUVIGNON SEMILLON 1998 ($9.49) Clear pale gold.
Pleasant citric scent with a sharp edge of lemon peel and a hint of
almond. Dry and crisp, tart and refreshing. Kosher for Passover;
additional information in Hebrew. U.S. importer: Golan Heights
Winery USA, NYC.
BARON HERZOG 1997 CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAY ($10.99) Bright
gold. Buttery and full, oaky and off-dry, a crowd-pleasing style. If
you like New World Chardonnay in the fat and buttery fashion, you'll
like this one. Mevushal, kosher for Passover.
FORTANT DE FRANCE 1998 VIN DE PAYS D'OC (FRANCE) MERLOT
($7.99) Very dark garnet. Simple fruit overwhelmed by a sulfury
"burnt- match" scent. Soft and simple fruit, one-dimensional, funky.
Not an enjoyable wine, I can't recommend it. Mevushal. U.S.
importer: Winebow Inc., NYC.
GOLAN HEIGHTS WINERY 2000 YARDEN GALILEE (ISRAEL) MOUNT HERMON
RED ($9.99) Very dark blackish-purple. Attractive black-cherry
and plum aromas with an earthy back note that develops an almost
"ripe cheese" quality with time in the glass. Ripe and juicy flavors
follow the hose, black fruit and zippy acidity. Good table wine.
Kosher for Passover, grapes not orla. U.S. importer: Royal Wine
Corp., NYC
GAMLA WINERY 1997 "EMERAID HILL" SHIMSHON (ISRAEL) PETITE
SIRAH/85%- CABERNET SAUVIGNON/15% ($8.99) Inky dark garnet,
almost black. Warm black fruit aroma; distinct scents of prunes and
raisins and a whiff of walnuts, not quite oxidized but a bit
Sherry-like. More impressive on the palate, black fruit and fragrant
pepper framed by lemony acidity. Kosher for Passover, grapes not
orla. U.S. importer: Golan Heights Winery USA, NYC.
For notes on three more kosher wines - Baron Herzog 1996
Clarksburg Chenin Blanc ($6.99); Hagafen 1996/5757 Napa Valley
Cabernet Sauvignon ($21.99), and Manischewitz American Concord Grape
Kosher Wine ($3.99) - see last year's Passover wine report at
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor/tswa010409.shtml
|
