Burgundy: An expensive education?
Courtesy of
30 Second Wine Advisor
By Robin GarrIt is hard to
imagine a more magical word in the world of wine than "Burgundy."
Rooted deeply in history, the name has become all but synonymous
with red wine. (In fact, for many years, American mass-market
wineries devalued the name by borrowing it for cheap, generic reds,
a custom that has happily all but died out in modern times.)
True Burgundy, of course, comes only from the French region of
the same name ("Bourgogne" in French, pronounced "Boor-gon-yuh"),
where the reds are made entirely from Pinot Noir and the whites from
Chardonnay.
It's one of the world's most beloved reds, in older times often
dubbed "the king of wines." (In this old-fashioned gender
stereotyping, Bordeaux was considered more "feminine" and wore the
crown as queen.)
But for at least two good reasons, Burgundy is a difficult wine
to get to know. First, for historical reasons ranging from early
French inheritance laws to land ownership reforms in Napoleonic
times, Burgundy's vineyards are divided into thousands of tiny
parcels, each with its own name, status and vinous reputation.
Learning that Burgundy's core region is called the Cote d'Or
("golden hillside"), and that this is further divided into the Cote
de Nuits and Cote de Beaune, is only the beginning of a long (but
tasty) education process to which would-be lovers of Burgundy must
submit.
An equally grave barrier is price. While it's possible to get an
affordable introduction to Burgundy in the $10 to $15 range through
its lowest-common-denominator offerings (Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays
bearing the generic "Bourgogne" designation), it's difficult to
sample Burgundies from more narrowly defined - and desirable - real
estate for less than $20, and you almost have to cross the $30 line
before you reach truly interesting territory. For most of us, these
price ranges don't encourage casual experimentation.
Then add the reality that Burgundy's unpredictable climate means
that vintage differences matter, and it's no surprise that many wine
enthusiasts simply throw up their hands and decide that learning
Burgundy is not worth the bother.
But it's a shame to dismiss one of the world's greatest wines
entirely. Even though my usual wine-budget range rarely permits
great Burgundy, I'll take an occasional foray into its lower reaches
just to maintain some sense of what Burgundy is all about.
To minimize the risks, here's my advice: Watch for tasting
reports from publications or individuals you trust; and develop a
good relationship with a trustworthy wine retailer in your community
who'll point you to good buys when they become available. That's how
I found today's featured wine, a Burgundy from Savigny-les-Beaune, a
section of the Cote de Beaune that's known for respectable quality
and good value. It's the least pricey of several vineyard bottlings
from Maurice Ecard, a respected producer, and 1999 was a very good
vintage.
If you're serious about Burgundy, or want to get that way, you
might also take a look at my friend Allen Meadows' Burghound.com, a
quarterly online publication that features extensive articles by a
man so passionate about Burgundy that he's chosen the pen name "Burghound."
Full access requires a paid subscription, but there's plenty of free
content on the site including many tasting reports. For details,
click to
http://www.burghound.com.
 Maurice
Ecard et Fils 1999 Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru "Les Narbantons"
($29.99)
Dark ruby in color, with a bold scent of wild cherries - almost
reminiscent of a cough drop but much more appealing - over nuances
of cedar and roses with an undertone of sweet oak. Textured and
full, red-fruit and floral character follows the nose, well balanced
with crisp acidity. Opens up to increasing complexity with time in
the glass, smooth and structured, tannins so soft and ripe that you
barely notice them on the palate. U.S. importer: Vintner Select,
Cincinnati, North Berkeley in California, and other regional
importers. (May 27, 2002)
FOOD MATCH: Burgundy's affinity for beef shows in its
perfect marriage with filet mignons pan-braised in red wine. The
recipe will be featured later today in the weekly Wine Advisor
FoodLetter, indexed at
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor/foodlist.phtml.
VALUE: As noted, "quality Burgundy" and "value" rarely
appear in the same sentence. But you will be hard pressed to find a
better Burgundy than this for less than $30. |
