Artisanal Wines: Supply and Demand
Courtesy of
30 Second Wine Advisor
By Robin Garr[Last month],
while quite a few wine fanciers were celebrating the arrival of this
year's Beaujolais Nouveau, I took a road less traveled, sampling a
dozen limited-production wines of France from the portfolio of
amiable importer David Schildknecht.
The wines were interesting, unusual and generally affordable ...
in other words, they showed just about everything that I like about
"artisanal" wines. And based on the E-mails I receive from many of
you, I'm not alone in my affection for these intriguing if offbeat
items.
But therein lies a dilemma that makes life frustrating for wine
enthusiasts - and for wine writers who want to share the joy of
affordable, artisanal wines with an international group of similarly
inclined wine lovers like you.
Please follow me closely here, as this is important: If you like
Beaujolais, it's not hard for you to find it in just about any city,
village or town. All by himself, the ubiquitous Georges Duboeuf of
Beaujolais ships 2 million bottles of his Nouveau to the United
States alone.
Contrast this with, say, the Gosset-Brabant Champagne that
Schildknecht presented at yesterday's tasting: After selling most of
its annual output of bubbly to private clients and top restaurants
in Europe, this tiny producer has only about 500 cases available
each year to offer consumers in France and around the world.
Most of the other wines offered are hardly more available.
Represented in the U.S. by small, regional importers like
Schildknecht's employer, Vintner Select of Cincinnati, they can be
found in the States and in other countries outside France,
particularly the UK. But distribution is spotty, and tracking down
that rare bottle can be a chore that ranges from difficult to
impossible.
So what's a wine writer to do? Keep silent about the tasty
oddities I find rather than frustrate readers who can't find them?
Publish tasting reports only on the most widely available of wines
... the Duboeuf Beaujolais and the Jadot Burgundies, the Kendall-
Jackson or Gallo wines from the U.S., Rosemount from Australia or
Montana from New Zealand? I don't think so ... but it is not an easy
call.
My advice, if you enjoy rare affordable wines (as opposed to rare
pricey and sought-after wines, which is another story entirely), is
to encourage your local wine shops to order wines from the importers
who specialize in wines of this type.
If you live in a state or region where it's legal to shop for
wine across state lines by mail or Internet order, an outstanding
resource is
Wine-Searcher.com. Its free database offers a quick way to
search for specific wines available from online vendors; its
nominally priced "Pro Version" permits even more powerful and
thorough searches.
On the other hand, if you, like me, are hampered in your quest by
living in a jurisdiction that denies you freedom of choice in buying
wine, I urge you to get serious about working with other wine lovers
to change those laws. For more information on this issue, visit
Free The
Grapes.
Finally, hoping more to whet your appetite than to increase your
frustration, following are my quick and casual notes on the wines at
yesterday's tasting. As noted, all 12 wines are imported by Vintner
Select of Cincinnati, which distributes wines in Ohio, Kentucky, the
District of Columbia and parts of North Carolina. Other regional
importers representing some of the wines in other parts of the U.S.
are Louis/Dressner (NYC), Ideal (Massachusetts), Import! (Madison,
Wis.), Dionysos (Virginia), Wine Co. (Minnesota), North Berkeley
(California) and others. Remember that importers don't sell direct
to the public, but may be able to refer you to vendors in your area.
Prices shown are Vintner Select's suggested retail in Ohio.
MARC ET ROGER LABBE 2001 ABYMES VIN DE SAVOIE ($8) - From
well off the beaten path, this is made from the Jacquere grape in
the French Alps. Very aromatic, grapefruit and pear; good body,
mouth-filling fruit, tangy finish. "Gulpable," but plenty of
structure for food.
CHATEAU VILLENEUVE 2001 SAUMUR ($10) - Floral, a hint of
beeswax, white fruit and minerals. Crisp and steely, a bit austere,
but should sing with food. A fine, affordable presentation of Loire
Chenin Blanc.
CHAMPAGNE GOSSET-BRABANT BRUT TRADITION ($30) - "Farmer
fizz," the jocular term for artisanal Champagne, and fine indeed.
It's 70 percent Pinot Noir, and it shows in rich cocoa and
appetizing tart- berry qualities, mouth-filling and rich, nicely
balanced. Could easily compete with "name" Champagnes selling for
twice the price.
CHAMPAGNE GOSSET-BRABANT BRUT RESERVE ($36) - A step up
from the Brut above and also predominantly Pinot Noir, it's complex
and refined; appley and yeasty, with a backbone of bracing acidity.
DOMAINE LA BLAQUE 2001 COTEAUX DE PIERREVERT ALPES DE HAUT
PROVENCE ($10) - New release of a wine I loved in the 2000
rendition, from a recently defined appellation high in the Provence
Alps. A tasty blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre, it's a virtual
"fruit bomb" of blackberries and rich dark chocolate; but unlike New
World "fruit bombs," it's built on a steely structure of acidity and
tannins. Remarkable value.
DOMAINE DRAGON 2001 COTES DE PROVENCE ($8) - Another
perennial value favorite from Provence, this is another GSM but adds
a dash of Cabernet. Lots of fresh red fruit, grapey and ripe.
LA SAUVAGEONNE 2001 COTEAU DU LANGUEDOC "LES RUFFES" ($8)
- A favorite of the early '90s, now back and thriving under new
British ownership. GSM plus Carignan, it builds complex aromas from
red fruit and earthy "paintbox" scents. Mouth-filling and ripe,
jammy fruit and "grilled meat" flavors, structured and long.
LACROIX-VANEL 2001 COTEAUX DU LANGUEDOC "CLOS FINE AMOR" ($11)
- A blend of Syrah, Grenache and Cinsaut, it's relatively refined,
showing cherry and blueberry fruit, herbs and spice in a well-
balanced display.
ERIC TEXIER 2001 COTES DU RHONE-BREZEME VIEILLES VIGNES ($18)
- Texier, a small negociant based in Beaujolais, is making quite a
name for himself by sourcing grapes from off-the-beaten-path
sections of the Rhone and turning them into impressive wines. This
one is opaque and intense, huge tart-berry fruit laced with anise,
herbs and fragrant pepper.
ERIC TEXIER 2001 COTES DU RHONE-SEGURET VIEILLES VIGNES ($15)
- Grenache shines through as ripe strawberries, with herbal notes
and a big but mellow body reinforced with powerful but silken
alcoholic strength.
ERIC TEXIER 2001 COTES DU RHONE-ST.-GERVAIS VIEILLES VIGNES
"LES CADINIERES" ($14) - Also 100 percent Grenache but very
different in character, this one shows mouth-watering berries
accented with white pepper and anise.
ERIC TEXIER 2001 COTES DU RHONE-LAUDUN ($14) - Gains
character with the addition of 60 percent old-vines Mourvedre,
apparently Spanish Monastrell brought to France in 1937 by a Spanish
Civil War refugee, which contributes characteristic "raw meat" and
"animal" nuances to the Grenache tart-berry fruit. |
