Ups and Downs of Viognier
Courtesy of
30 Second Wine Advisor
By Robin GarrFor an
intriguing example of the influence of trend and fashion on the
world of wine, let's direct our attention today to Viognier. This
golden and aromatic grape is enjoying a spate of popularity these
days, perhaps boosted by the same quest for alternatives to the
ubiquitous Chardonnay that has brought renewed attention to
Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris/Pinot Grigio.
For generations, Viognier was a fairly common white variety in
the Rhone Valley. But from the standpoint of vine grower as farmer,
it's not a particularly attractive crop: It doesn't produce heavily,
and in damp weather the grapes are subject to mildew. So over the
years, many growers ripped out Viognier vines in favor of
easier-to-grow varieties, until by the 1960s it had become virtually
an endangered grape, with fewer than 50 acres grown in France and
almost none anywhere else.
Within recent memory, the standard wine references called
Viognier an oddity, grown only in tiny quantities in the Rhone's
Condrieu
region and Chateau-Grillet, and as a homeopathic component that
added fragrance to the robust red Cote-Rotie. "A rare but
celebrated grape," reported "The New Frank Schoonmaker Encyclopedia
of Wine" in its 1988 revision. In 1986, Jancis Robinson wrote in her
excellent (and now sadly out-of-print) "Vines, Grapes and Wines"
that Viognier "Quantitatively ... hardly deserves a mention. ...
little more than 32 hectares (80 acres) of it are planted anywhere
in the world."
But what a difference a decade makes. By the early '90s, Viognier
was coming back in France as a source of everyday white wines,
particularly in the Languedoc region.
And for the first time it began to pop up in other parts of the
wine-growing world, in Australia and especially in California, where
pioneering growers had planted just 79 acres of it by 1991, a number
that grew to 1,488 acres in 1999 (according to California's Wine
Institute trade group) and increased to almost 2,000 acres last
year, edging out Riesling as it rose to eighth place among white
grapes in California plantings.
Popularity has also influenced the price: With few exceptions,
most of which aren't awe-inspiring, quality U.S. Viognier seems to
start around $15 and go up from there, placing it in fairly close
price competition with Condrieu, which is often seen in the $40
range but can be found for less. (Expect to pay $75 or more, though,
for Chateau-Grillet, which is produced in limited quantities and can
be hard to find.)
Many people who don't speak French find it hard to get their
tongues wrapped around "Viognier," but it's not hard if you break it
down into its three syllables: Order "Vee-ohn-yay," and you'll be
fine.
From its bright color, which often ranges toward the gold, to its
intense aromas, which are often floral and may incorporate perfumed
peaches and tropical fruit, this is a white wine with a flavor and
aroma profile all its own, even if some New World examples add a
notably oaky character that can move it back toward the style of
Chardonnay.
Don't buy it to put away in the cellar, by the way. Even the best
Viogniers are best drunk up young, while all that exuberant fruit is
fresh. And be prepared for it to make an iffy match with food. While
I've enjoyed California Viognier with smoked salmon (and Condrieu
with foie gras), I find that its over-the-top aromatics and intense
flavors may make it better suited for sipping as a before-dinner
aperitif than as a companion with any but the most bold and spicy
fare.
But, especially if you tire of the sameness of so many modern
Chardonnays, it's worth trying a Viognier now and then as a change
of pace. Here are my tasting reports on two good California
examples.
BONTERRA 2001 MENDOCINO COUNTY VIOGNIER ($22.99)
Very pale brass color with a greenish hue. Perfumed, complex scents
offer an appetizing mix of apples, butterscotch and a whiff of
banana oil that invites a taste; it's intriguing but perhaps not as
obviously floral as the conventional wisdom suggests of Viognier.
Crisp and tart, almost tangy, flavors mirror the nose and add a
distinct element of tangerine peel. Long and clean, snappy finish.
Not a "benchmark" Viognier, perhaps, but a very appealing wine from
Bonterra, an all-organic producer associated with its Mendocino
neighbor, Fetzer. (Nov. 13, 2002)
FOOD MATCH: As noted, Viognier can be a difficult food match, but
this went quite well with an off-the-wall vegetarian risotto made
with brussels sprouts shredded into a "slaw" (I am not kidding about
this) with roasted red peppers and toasted pine nuts.
VALUE: I start resisting when U.S. Viognier passes the $20 point,
but balance and flavor interest make this one a contender, and a
fair value.
WEB LINKS: For the winery's fact sheet on its Viognier, click to:
http://www.bonterra.com/viognier.html
ZACA MESA 2000 ZACA VINEYARDS SANTA BARBARA COUNTY VIOGNIER
($15.99)
Clear gold, its aromas breathe honey and tropical fruit, figs and
dates; a delicately floral and "woolly" whiff of acacia comes out
with swirling in the glass. Intense white-fruit flavors are balanced
with bracing acidity in an attention-getting wine that makes a
problematical food match but an interesting aperitif. (Nov. 30,
2002)
FOOD MATCH: The wine's intense tropical-fruit flavors almost
overwhelm a simple dish of leftover Thanksgiving turkey, but as
noted, it's fine for sipping alone.
VALUE: Appropriate value at this price.
WEB LINKS: To view the winery's Viognier page, visit
http://www.zacamesa.com/wine/ then click "Viognier" in the left
column. |
