Taste Washington: An Epicurean Extravaganza
By Bob Woehler
Combining 140 of Washington's top wines with 85
of the state's best restaurants guarantees an epicurean's delight.
That was the case Sunday at the annual Taste Washington event in
Seattle where the best of our regional food is linked with the
best of our wines.
I was like a kid in a penny candy store with a dollar in my
pocket as I went from booth to booth sampling various gourmet
combinations.
A food and wine combo made in heaven pairs American Kobe beef by
Seattle's posh Four Seasons Georgian Room with Walla Walla's
Reininger Winery 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon. Talk about smooth on
smooth. The fork tender Kobe beef in morel mushroom veal and cream
gravy was so rich that it tasted almost like dessert.
The Reininger's Cabernet was smooth and supple with a richness
that could match the rich fare. I felt like I had died and gone to
heaven and showed a complete lack of self-control going back for
seconds and thirds!
Another tasty treat was Visconti's Italian Restorante of
Wenatchee's wild boar ravioli in a fresh cut Roma tomato, garlic,
olive oil and basil sauce. The sauce was an explosion of fresh
flavors to complement the pasta and meat. A light smooth cherry
dominated Mariposa Vineyard pinot noir from White Heron Cellars
of Crescent Bar was a fine accompaniment for the flavorful pasta
dish.
Closer to home was Richland's Sundance Grill, which matched a
chilled duck breast canapé with wild berry compote stuffed in a
huckleberry-flavored tortilla shell. This fruity berry dish was
matched with Terra Blanca 2000 Red Mountain Syrah on the
right and C.R. Sandidge 2000 Syrah, Minick Vineyards, on the
left. Right or left, it made no difference, as each wine showed some
spice and nice berry flavors marrying well with the almost jamlike
duck fruit canapé.
Speaking of savory matches, Mountain Dome nonvintage
sparkling rose had great acids and tangy flavors to go with the
slightly salty and savory cured sturgeon on three seeds lavish
(that's a cracker to us uneducated) with crème fraîche topped by
paddlefish caviar.
I've had a few steak sandwiches in my time but nothing close to
Morton's of Chicago steakhouse prime filet on a bun. It's charred on
a 1,500-degree broiler that sears in the flavor with a fine-crusted
outside. The sandwich was a great combo with full-bodied Goose
Ridge Vineyard 2000 Vireo Columbia Valley red a blend of one
third cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah and with Tamarack
Cellars 2001 Firehouse Red from Walla Walla a blend of cabernet
sauvignon, merlot and syrah. The good tannins and acids matched well
with the charred steak.
It was time for a little dessert, and I thought of Krispy Kreme
doughnuts but couldn't come up with any wine match. How did a
doughnut get into this gourmet affair?
However, I spotted Samson Estate Winery of Everson nearby
serving a chilled nonvintage Cassis portlike wine. Cassis is made
from currants and this sweet brilliant fruity flavored wine was a
fine match with Farestart's chocolate buckwheat bread pudding with
almond crème fraîche and candied kumquats. Kumquats, hmm, there is a
new flavor descriptor I can try in my next wine column.
New Releases
These wines are tasted by a Wine Press Northwest magazine panel. The
tasters do not know either the winery or the type of wine when
reviewing. A wine must receive a unanimous vote to gain an
outstanding rating.
Canoe Ridge 2001 Gewürztraminer, Washington, $13 -
Outstanding! This Walla Walla winery that gets its grapes from it
own vineyard in the lower Horse Heaven Hills has repeatedly hit the
nail on the head with its gewürztraminer. Inviting citrus and
tropical fruit aromas and flavors finish with a tangy farewell. A
great match for a variety of spicy hot dishes.
Barnard Griffin 2001 Sauvignon Blanc reserve, Columbia Valley,
$20 - Always a pleaser and best seller. Spicy citrus with
touches of apples and pears. A tangy finish adds to the enjoyment.
Canoe Ridge Vineyard 2001 Chardonnay, Columbia Valley, $19
-This isn't a Chardonnay for sissies. Huge smoky oak, bold tropical
flavors and enough creamy butter components to baste a bird.
Desert Wind Vineyard 1998 Ruah, Wahluke Slope, $50 -
Outstanding! This is the new Washington operation for the Fries and
Jenkins families that operated Duck Pond Cellars of Dundee, Ore. The
families hope to have the Desert Wind Vineyards Winery up and
operating in Prosser this September. The Ruah is a big, bold, red
blend of cedar, red currants, bittersweet chocolate French roast
coffee and cola. This is an assertive wine with big tannins that
would matched well with lamb chops. The blend is 48 percent Cabernet
Sauvignon, 40 percent Merlot and 12 percent Cabernet Franc.
Waterbrook Winery 2001 Melange Columbia Valley, $13 -
Outstanding! This longtime Walla Walla-area winery has been quiet
the past few years but no longer with several outstanding big red
wines. The Melange is an interesting mix of 31 percent sangiovese,
25 percent Syrah, 23 percent Merlot and 23 percent Cabernet
Sauvignon. Huge berries from start to finish with lush firm fruit
and a sweet tannin finish. The price is right, too, for a Walla
Walla red.
Walla Walla Vintners 2000 Red Cuvée, Washington, $25 -
Smoky toast and coffee beginnings along with some fresh mocha latte.
A bit low on fruit yet with some charm.
Cañon De Sol 2000 Meritage Red Wine, Columbia Valley, $38
- Bittersweet chocolate, cedar and cola upfront leading to plums,
cherries, more chocolate and a rich finish. A real sipper. 
Bob Woehler
has been writing about grapes and wines of the Pacific Northwest
since 1978. His columns appear twice monthly in the Tri-City
Herald in Tri-Cities, Wash. and in Wine
Press Northwest.
Send
e-mail to Bob Woehler
|