Great Wines Don't Have to be Priciest
By Bob Woehler
In this whirlwind era of new wineries where
every new vintage seems to be priced at $25, $50 or more, it's
time to step back and remember the good old days when you could
buy most wines at under $10 a bottle.
I was reminded of this recently when I stocked up on a case of
mixed rieslings and gewürztraminer for summer and found the whole
case cost slightly less than one bottle of a premium Walla Walla
wine.
There's nothing wrong with wine costing $25 and more. Most are
worth the price, but common sense says that unless you are a
Microsoft millionaire, you are going to have to find some bargain
wines for your everyday drinking.
Wine writers at times spend a little too much space on the
wonderful high-end wines and perhaps not enough on the good and,
even, outstanding lower-cost stuff.
Wine Press Northwest magazine has a section each issue called
Recent Releases, and a special portion of that is devoted to wines
that are best buys, meaning they run $10 or less.
This column is devoted to cherry picking some of the past four
edition's best-buy recommendations by varieties. Some of the
recommended wine may have been replaced by later vintages, and the
prices do not reflect sales or case discounts.
As you will see, certain wineries seem to specialize in turning
out high-quality, lower-cost wines.
Riesling
Ste. Chapelle 2001 Winemaker's Series, Idaho, $6 - A
wonderful food wine with all the nice characteristics of a great
riesling including enticing floral aromas and an abundance of
tropical and orchard fruit flavors.
Hogue Cellars 2001, Columbia Valley, $10 - Simple loaded
with fruit including peach. Great acidity and a wonderful drink on a
hot summer's day.
Chenin Blanc
Covey Run Vintners 2000, Washington, $7 - Once one of the
more popular fruity varieties. Appealing citrus and apple essences,
sweet but with great acids to balance. A refreshing drink.
Ste. Chapelle 2001, Idaho, $6 - Called soft chenin because
it's so smooth, this is a very easy drinking wine with pleasing
fruity aromas and flavors and surprisingly good acid.
Gewürztraminer
Ste. Chapelle 2001 Winemaker's Series, Idaho, $6 - It might
not be up to snuff as a classic Gewürztraminer, but there is plenty
to like with orange water and citrus components and a zesty
crispness.
Hogue Cellars 2001, Columbia Valley, $10 - Wonderful
grapefruit essences, tropical fruit and hint of spice. A sexy wine.
Pinot Gris
Columbia Winery 2001, Columbia Valley, $10 - This enjoyable
fruit-driven white offers a produce section of flavors including
apples, oranges and pineapples as well as sweet herbs and mineral
notes.
Chardonnay
Columbia Crest 2001, Columbia Valley, $9 - Fruity with
apples, pears and under-ripe grapefruit. Refreshing with nice
acidity.
Covey Run Vintners 2000 Washington, $9 - Very approachable
with good tropical scents and refreshing flavors of apples and
pears. Good with food.
Ste. Chapelle 2000 Winemaker's Series, Idaho, $8 -
Tropical fruit leads the way, followed by hints of toasty oak and a
rich, juicy midpalate. Just a hint of sweetness makes this an easy
drinking dry white.
Stimson Estates Cellars 2001, Washington, $12 - Another
outstanding house wine in a double size bottle with huge creamy
vanilla overtones and flavors of apples and fresh tropical fruit.
Great acidity lend to this wine with universal appeal.
Merlot
Stimson Estate Cellars 2000, Washington, $12 - If you ever
wanted a classic Merlot this is it and a bargain in a double-size
bottle. Smoky oak with blackberry aromas lead to rich
chocolate-covered cherry flavors.
Columbia Crest 1999 Grand Estates, Columbia Valley, $11 -
This is my house Merlot and probably the biggest-selling Merlot in
the country. Big aromas of oak and black fruit with huge flavors of
blueberries and chocolate.
Salmon Harbor 2000, Washington, $10 - Voted outstanding by
Wine Press Northwest, this second label from Hogue needs to take no
backseat. Big vanilla, dried herb, sweet blackberry and plum
flavors.
Cabernet Sauvignon
Stimson Estate Cellars 2000, Columbia Valley, $12 - A jug
wine that has everything you would want in a great Cabernet.
Brimming with luscious, jammy, black cherry flavors with notes of
vanilla and cedar.
Covey Run Vintners 2000, Washington, $9 - When you have
good fruit, flaunt it. Loaded with Cab fruit including raspberries
and currants with touches of espresso and vanilla. Great tannin
backbone.
Paul Thomas Wines 2001 Cab-Merlot, Washington, $9 - A
smooth blend showing off the best of both grapes. Aromas of licorice
and tar gives way to blackberry and chocolate flavors. Good acids to
match tomato-based pasta dishes.
Ste. Chapelle 2000 Winemaker's Series, Idaho, $10 - A big
wine with oak and tar along with fresh berries flavors.
Columbia Crest 1999 Grand Estates, Columbia Valley, $11 -
What makes this Cab so attractive other than its overall quality is
its availability nationwide and often at bargain prices. Lush and
flavorful.
Syrah
Ste. Chapelle 2000 Winemaker's Series, Idaho, $10 - It's
difficult because of the popularity of this grape to find a good one
under $10, but here it is. Bright strawberry flavors with nuances of
herbs. Soft tannins for easy drinking. 
Bob Woehler
has been writing about grapes and wines of the Pacific Northwest
since 1978. His columns appear twice monthly in the Tri-City
Herald in Tri-Cities, Wash. and in Wine
Press Northwest.
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