Popularity of Syrahs on the Rise
By Bob Woehler
The sudden popularity of Pacific Northwest Syrahs is easy to
understand.
The lush, jammy fruitiness makes this red wine an attractive step
into reds for newer wine drinkers who may balk at tannic Cabernet
Sauvignon and similar red wines.
This wine "is on everyone's lips," says Andy Perdue, editor of
Wine Press Northwest, which featured the "seductive syrah" in its
fall edition.
I find Syrah so pleasurable that I have a hard time salting away
any in my wine cellar because I keep drinking up what I have on
hand.
I find Syrah's violet aromas, jammy berry fruit and its nuances
of spice on the finish beguiling.
The first time Wine Press Northwest did a Syrah tasting, there
were 17 entered for judging. In the tasting I helped judge earlier
this summer , there were 103 Syrahs from Washington, Oregon, Idaho
and British Columbia.
Washington dominates in this variety in the Northwest, with 2,100
acres planted and 1,610 acres bearing fruit. Syrah is No. 3 behind
Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot as the state's most popular red wine.
The grape, which also is grown in France's Rhône Valley, has become
wildly popular in Australia as well, where it's called shiraz.
Whatever you call it, it's a red wine well worth buying. What's
exciting about the Wine Press judging was that the top two syrahs,
Caņon de Sol and Goose Ridge Vineyards, are made only
a few miles from the Tri-Cities.
Also of special note is that both these wines were made by
Charlie Hoppes of Kennewick, one of the top red winemakers in the
Northwest.
-- Caņon de Sol Winery and Vineyards 2001, Columbia Valley,
$30 - Smooth and lush with wonderful acidity for aging. This is
a big, bold wine full of bright, berry flavors and a toasty oak
beginning. Available at the winery in Badger Canyon.
-- Goose Ridge Vineyard 2000, Columbia Valley, $24 - Goose
Ridge is near Goose Gap, hence the name.
Most of the huge 1,000-acre vineyard's grapes are sold to other
wineries. However, Hoppes, the consulting winemaker, makes a few
selected wines for the Monson family, which owns the vineyards. This
one has huge jam and complex fruit flavors with subtle hints of
chocolate. The aromas include tobacco and toast. Great balance.
These two Syrahs now are being released in the Tri-Cities and
other markets.
Here are five other "outstanding" Syrahs that caught my fancy.
-- Dunham Cellars 2001 Columbia Valley, $45 - You have to
put Walla Walla's Eric Dunham at the top of the list each year for
his syrahs. Aromas of spices and violets. Loaded with flavors of
berry fruit. Smooth and lengthy. Comes with a distinct wax like
topped bottle.
-- Barnard Griffin 2001 Columbia Valley, $17 - One thing
you can count on with Winemaker Rob Griffin is that all of his wines
are near the top in any competition, while his prices are moderate.
Delightful vanilla oak beginning leading to berry fruit and some
great espresso coffee. The finish is long and memorable.
-- McCrea Cellars 2001 Ciel du Cheval, Red Mountain, $45 -
Doug McCrea probably makes more different labels of syrah than
anyone else in the Pacific Northwest and his skills show. Opulent
oak, smooth berries with complex flavors and nicely balanced acids
and oak.
-- L'Ecole No. 41 Seven Hills Vineyard, Walla Walla Valley,
$35 - Marty Clubb has mastered a number of different varieties
and you can add syrah to that list. A harmonious blend spicy oak and
blackberry flavors, great length and tremendous balance.
-- Seven Hills Winery 2001, Columbia Valley, $20 - Casey
McClellan is a longtime Walla Walla Valley winemaker who makes
terrific wines at fair prices. This has big cherry jam aromas and
flavors. A delightful wine that tickles the taste buds and lingers
on with a pleasing aftertaste.
While it's exciting to review the top of the line wines in the
judging that received "outstanding" ratings from the judging panel,
it also is interesting to review a few of the "excellent" and
"recommended" wines that were considered "best buys" because they
cost less than $15 a bottle.
-- Bridgman Cellars 2001, Yakima Valley, $14 - Charming
with delightful fruity aromas and flavors. Lingering and smooth. One
of my favorites.
-- Snoqualmie Vineyards 2000 Columbia Valley, $12 - This
wine often can be found at less than $10 in grocery stores and even
less than $8 at the Washington State Liquor stores. Nice plums,
blackberries and sweet spices. Full bodied and very drinkable. It
was called a crowd pleaser by Wine Press Northwest.
-- Covey Run 2001 Washington, $9 - Long and lush with
inviting oak aromas and smooth blackberry flavors. Great acids and a
big finish.
-- Powers Winery 2000, Columbia Valley, $13 - Lots of
spice and dried fruit components. It's on the fruity side with a
smooth finish. Powers has a habit of making delicious, inexpensive
reds. 
Bob Woehler
has been writing about grapes and wines of the Pacific Northwest
since 1978. His columns appear twice monthly in the Tri-City
Herald in Tri-Cities, Wash. and in Wine
Press Northwest.
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