 Exploring
Southern Italy
Courtesy of
30 Second Wine Advisor
By Robin GarrMention the
wines of Italy, and chances are that most wine lovers will think
immediately of Tuscany: Chianti and its neighbors and the modern
high-tech "Super Tuscans" from the historic hilly countryside
between Florence and Siena.
Others might cite Piemonte, the northwestern foothills of the
Alps, with its sought-after reds - Barolo and Barbaresco - as well
as tasty Dolcetto, Barbera, the sparkling whites of Asti and more.
The Veneto, Alto Adige and lovely Friuli-Venezia Giulia might
garner a few votes, and individual wine enthusiasts will harbor
special affection for the regions that they've toured or that their
ancestors set sail from.
But by and large, the sunny climes of Southern Italy are
overlooked and under-regarded by most wine lovers ... and I'm here
to suggest that if you're in this category, you might want to take a
closer look.
From Apulia (Puglia), the "heel" of the Italian "boot," to the
scenic seacoast of Campania around Naples and Mount Vesuvius, many
of the top wines of the South stand comparison with any other world
wine region. Typical of wines from warm, sunny regions, reds and
whites alike tend to be ripe and robust; yet many of them share that
wonderful Italian character of sturdy structure and zippy acidity
that make them natural companions with food.
What's more, most Southern Italian producers shun the modern
infatuation with "international" grapes and styles. Rather than
joining the worldwide rush toward Chardonnay and Merlot, they
proudly make wines from indigenous grapes in traditional styles.
Saving the islands of Sicily and Sardinia for another day, let's
have a quick outline overview of the four Southern states and some
of their best-known wines.
CAMPANIA: Lachryma Christi ("The Tears of Christ"), grown on the
slopes of Vesuvius, may be best known for the legend that yields its
name, boasting that the region's vineyards originally sprung up when
watered by Jesus's tears. Taurasi, however, is perhaps the region's
best (and most ageworthy) red, made from the excellent Aglianico
grape. Two of my favorite whites - Fiano di Avellino and today's
tasting, Greco di Tufo - come from this region, where local folklore
traces their history to the ancient Greeks and Romans.
CALABRIA: The "toe" of the "boot," first settled as an outpost of
the Greek empire before there was a Rome, is mostly known to the
rest of the world of wine only for a single red, Ciro.
BASILICATA: The rural and rather isolated "arch" of the
boot-shaped Italian map is another little-known region, but the
first-rate producer Paternoster spreads its reputation beyond its
borders with the hearty red Aglianico del Vulture.
PUGLIA: The "boot heel," also known as Apulia, may be the best
known region of the South, drawing world attention in particular for
its fruity Primitivo reds. Long thought to be a "brother" or
"cousin" of the American Zinfandel, Primitivo has recently been
shown by DNA research to be the identical grape, originating in
Croatia and perhaps brought back to Southern Italy from the U.S. in
the late 1800s. It's being made in increasing quantities by a
growing number of producers these days. Some make it in an Italian
style; others seek to replicate the big, powerful and forwardly
fruity fashion of California Zinfandel - and, now that its heritage
has been established, they may legally label it "Zinfandel." Puglia
produces a score of other wines, though, in wide variety; best-
known may be the Aglianico-based reds of Salice Salentino.
We're studying Southern Italian wine in this month's Wine Tasting
101 feature on WineLoversPage.com, inviting wine lovers everywhere
to join in an interactive exploration of the wines of this region,
tasting and sharing impressions in a civil online environment. To
participate, point your browser to
http://www.wineloverspage.com/forum/wt101.phtml
for more information about this free wine-education activity.
And now, today's wine: "Greco" di Tufo takes its name from its
supposed ancient Greek heritage, and it has demonstrably been around
for at least two millennia, being mentioned in a surviving carving
at Pompeii - possibly one of the world's oldest wine- tasting notes.
 MASTROBERARDINO
2001 GRECO DI TUFO ($21.99)
A distinct reddish tinge adds a coppery hue to the rich straw
color of this wine, making it almost as robust in appearance as in
flavor. Intriguing and complex aromas are centered on white fruits
- melon and starfruit and a hint of banana, with grace notes of
somthing oddly like the scent of beeswax. Full-bodied and rich,
fruit flavors are consistent with the nose, well-balanced by crisp
acidity, with a pleasant touch of bitter almond in the very long
finish. An exceptional white wine, with much of the body and
complexity that you might expect of a red. U.S. importer: Paterno
Imports, Lake Bluff, Ill. (July 5, 2003)
FOOD MATCH: Fine with a hearty fish dish like alder-smoked
salmon tossed with farfalle pasta; might overwhelm more delicate
seafood.
VALUE: Although the price approaches special-occasion
levels, you'll be hard pressed to find a finer white for less.
WHEN TO DRINK: Richness, body and structure suggest a
white capable of careful cellaring, although you'll want to keep an
eye on a possible tendency to oxidize; it's certainly ready to drink
now.
WEB LINK: The importer's fact sheet on the 2002, which is
now in distribution, is online at:
Paterno Wines. |
