Northwest Getting to Know Other Reds
By Bob Woehler
For readers who have grown familiar with
Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, it's time to dive into a whole new
world.
Actually, it's Old World wine with a Northwest twist.
Dozens of wineries in Washington and Oregon are producing classic
European grape varieties that are generally unfamiliar to wine
drinkers as a whole, and learning about them will be a lot of fun.
Red wines such as Nebbiolo, Barbera and
Sangiovese are important grapes in Italy, just as Tempranillo
and Grenache are in Spain. Lemberger is little known
outside its native Austria. And Zinfandel, of course, is one
of California's most important grapes.
There's even a grape named after a French World War I hero,
Maréchal Foch.
None is big in our corner of the wine world, yet all have a
common desire to find a place in a wine consumer's psyche.
Andy Perdue, editor of Wine Press Northwest, said, "While
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir and, more
recently, Syrah are big here, some of these varieties that
seem new to us are commonplace in other parts of the world. Fifteen
years ago, Merlot was not big yet in the Pacific Northwest - and the
same can be said about Syrah five years ago."
Wine Press Northwest magazine put together 72 of these so-called
"out-of-the-mainstream" reds for a judging. Some of the best include
the following:
- Woodward Canyon Winery 2002 Barbera, Walla Walla Valley, $21
— A hedonistic, pleasurable Italian-style red with great balance,
well-integrated oak, spicy fruit aromas and full-bodied plum and
chocolate flavors.
- Maryhill Winery 2001 Zinfandel, Columbia Valley, $32 — A
flamboyant wine made from Columbia Gorge grapes with exotic aromas
of rich, lush fruit and abundant oak. They are followed by lovely
flavors of chocolate and berries.
- Yakima Cellars 2001 Zinfandel, Yakima Valley, $18 — Big,
dark, straight forward and delicious, this Zin is loaded with aromas
and flavors of brambly berry and plum fruit with hints of black
pepper.
- Colvin Vineyards 2001 Carmenere, Walla Walla Valley, $16
— This rare Bordeaux variety reveals elegant vanilla and sweet herb
aromas with flavors of ripe huckleberries and creamy milk chocolate.
- Three Rivers Winery 2002 Pepper Bridge Vineyard Sangiovese,
Walla Walla Valley, $39 — This robust Super Tuscan-style red
reveals fresh cherry aromas and complex, spicy, fruit-driven flavors
with plenty of acidity and a lengthy finish.
- Yakima Cellars 2001 Red Willow Vineyard Reserve Sangiovese,
Yakima Valley, $29 — Score another top wine for this downtown
Yakima winery. Bright fruit mingles with inviting spice and cola
aromas and red berry flavors.
- Zefina 2001 Alder Ridge Vineyard Serience, Columbia Valley,
$29 — Winemaker extraordinare Charlie Hoppes crafted this
Rhône-style blend of Grenache, Syrah, Counoise and Mourvedre.
Pleasing oak and earth aromas lead to absolutely lovely flavors of
dark fruit.
- Whidbey Island Winery 2002 Sangiovese, Yakima Valley, $16
— This tiny producer in Western Washington has created a delightful
Tuscan-style red with rich berry aromas and flavors with
well-integrated oak, delicious structure and bold acidity.
- Barnard Griffin 2002 Hellsgate Canyon Vineyard Zinfandel,
Columbia Valley, $20 — Practically everything winemaker Rob
Griffin touches turns to gold, and this Zin from a Columbia Gorge
vineyard is full-flavored with tons of dark fruit, especially
raspberry.
- Sorensen Cellars 2001 Sangiovese, Washington, $18 —
Richard Sorensen crafts consistently high-quality wines from his
tiny Port Townsend winery. He turns to the Columbia Valley for his
grapes and scores well with this Sangiovese. It shows off rich
structure and aromas and flavors of fresh strawberry jam.
- Kiona Vineyards Winery 2001 Lemberger, Columbia Valley, $12
— The Williams family has pioneered this variety for two decades.
This is loaded with ripe blackberry aromas and flavors with hints of
licorice and bittersweet chocolate on the long, smooth finish.
- Covey Run Vintners 2002 Lemberger, Washington, $11 — A
great wine at an affordable price, Covey's Lemberger is bold,
refreshing and delicious thanks to its blueberry aromas and flavors,
bright acidity and beautiful balance.
- Cascade Cliffs Vineyard & Winery 2002 Nebbiolo, Columbia
Valley, $25 — Mature aromas and flavors of cedar, spice and
cherries highlight this classy Italian-style red.
- China Bend Vineyards 2001 Lake Roosevelt Red, Washington,
$18 — Made mostly from Maréchal Foch, this is filled with aromas
and flavors of sweet oak spices, mocha and black cherries. 
Bob Woehler
has been writing about grapes and wines of the Pacific Northwest
since 1978. His columns appear twice monthly in the Tri-City
Herald in Tri-Cities, Wash. and in Wine
Press Northwest.
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