Think Pink
By Jens Strecker of
Portalis Wines
No, no, we are not talking about white Zinfandel
or “blush” wines. We are talking about rosés.
Let’s face it: Rosé wines have somewhat of a bad reputation. No
wonder if you have only tried “blush” wines (okay, I will admit they
have kind of a soda pop quality, which might be interesting to some)
– usually low in alcohol and semi-sweet or so-called “white”
Zinfandels, mass produced by wineries like Sutter Home, Gallo and
Beringer.
On the contrary, European consumers drink dry rosé wines
regularly. The French drink even more rosé than white wine. Hot
summer days, weekend family meetings and out-of-door lunches, they
all call for rosé wines. So why don’t we touch the stuff?
Hold on now; let’s not give up yet. For example, rosés from the
Provence (Bandol), the westbank of southern Rhone (Tavel/ Lirac),
Loire Valley (Anjou), Spain, Italy and California can be wonderful,
light to medium-bodied, refreshing summer wines and easy food
pairing wines. Dry rosés go well with foods like chicken salad,
pasta salad, vegetable salad, light fish, chicken and turkey breast.
Rosé wines are mostly made using the same blends as the red wines
from each respective region. Rosé wine is the product of the
fermentation of red grapes, where the skins are left on for a short
time which results in a light color, lower tannins and a lower
alcohol level compared to red wines. The longer the skin contact,
the bigger the body and the darker the color.
About 75% of the wine production in the Provence appellation is
rosé. The production of the Tavel appellation of southern Rhone is
even 100%. Other big rosé-producing appellations are Lirac, Cotes Du
Ventoux and Cotes Du Luberon. The most common grapes are Grenache,
Cinsault, Mouvedre and Tibourin. Mouvedre is the main grape in
Provence.
The best rosé I have ever tried was Domaine Tempier. It
was damn near perfect: an ideal balance of weight, fruit, elegance
and acidity with wonderful flavors of strawberries, cherries and
raspberries. Quite pricey ($32), but worth the experience. Most
rosés fall in the price range of $10 to $15 and most of them won’t
disappoint you.
A little note from California: Hendry 2002 Rosé ($16), a
Zinfandel/Cabernet Sauvignon blend from Napa Valley, and Sola
Rosa ($19), a Sangiovese/Syrah/Merlot blend are just two
examples which show top quality and great fruit and stand up easily
to the southern Rhone Rosés.
Let’s not forget Washington State. Syncline will release
an outstanding rosé based on the Cabernet Franc grape. Barrel
tastings were more than promising and the release will be in May.
One final note: a good rosé should be slightly chilled.
Okay, I think it’s time for a glass of rosé…
Recommendations:
Rosé di Regaleali ($13):
Made from a blend of Nerello Mascalese and Nero D’Avola. Dark rosé
color with delicate aromas of raspberry, cherry, blackberry and
mulberry.
Sola Rosa ($19):
The wine is made of a blend of Sangiovese, Syrah, and Merlot grapes,
mostly from Napa and Sonoma countries. Ripe cherry and raspberry
flavors with hints of toast and minerals. Aged for 5 months in
French oak.
Domaine Tempier Bandol Rosé ($33):
An absolutely delightful color (peach-pink). Red summer berry aromas
with hints of cream, vanilla and spice on the nose. Full-bodied and
gorgeously textured on the palate, which has a full, rounded
mouthfeel.
Chateau La Boutignane Rosé ($11):
Excellent value from Corbieres ( Southern France). Medium to
full-bodied, with wonderful flavors of strawberries, raspberries and
blackberries and a soft, round texture.
Chateau Routas Rosé ($11):
A bargain from Provence (Coteaux du Varois). This wine has a lighter
style, with refreshing flavors of strawberries, watermelon,
raspberries and cherries. Low in acidity. Perfect summer sipper.
For more information, visit us at Portalis Wine Shop + Wine Bar
located at 5310 Ballard Ave NW, Seattle, WA 98107 or check out our
website at
www.portaliswines.com.
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