 Tasting
The Macallan
By Tom Allan
A lucky group of scotch drinkers were treated to a
fantastic tasting experience on April 15th at the Hotel Monaco in
Seattle. While many were at home desperately finishing their
tax returns, we were learning the story of The Macallan from Brand
Ambassador Caspar MacRae. The event was sponsored by the University
of Washington Alumni Association’s Young Alumni group (thankfully,
being young was not a requirement for entry).
Mr. MacRae, a former royal guard in the British army, is a
delightful storyteller and kept the participants entertained while
teaching them about the malt and the distillery. Located 40 miles
east of Inverness in Craigellachie, The Macallan Distillery was
founded in 1824 shortly after distilling was again legalized after a
long dry period. Curiously, they say the distillery was able to
produce a 10 year-old whisky as early as 1825. They are known for
some unique and distinctive practices in the crafting of their
malts:
- The Macallan is aged in casks crafted in Spain from European
Oak trees. The trees grow in the mountains of Northern Spain and
are between 100 and 150 years old. They are careful to note that
the trees are selectively felled and the forest is
self-sustaining. The planks cut from the trees are air dried for
two years before being shaped into staves and formed into casks in
Cadiz. The casks are seasoned in a two-step process. They are
first used to ferment must into sherry for three months. They are
then drained and filled with maturing sherry for three years. Only
then are they shipped to Scotland for use in aging whisky.
- The distillery still uses Golden Promise barley as the core of
their malt bill. Most other distilleries have abandoned the
variety in favor of higher yield alternatives.
- The whisky is distilled in relatively small pots, twice.
The careful attention to tradition and detail by Whisky Maker Bob
Dalgarno results in a masterful bottle of single malt whisky. Which
brings me to the most important part of the evening: What did we
taste?
12 Years Old – 86 Proof
The flagship brand for The Macallan in America, the 12 year, shows
all the distinctive characteristics of the distillery. This was
noticeably darker in color than a comparative Speyside malt from
another producer that was included in the tasting. Note in the
“spider diagram” (provided by The Macallan website) the nearly equal
balance between spicy, toffee, citrus, floral, and dried fruit
flavors. The citrus comes through as distinctly orange in character,
with noticeable sherry and raisin flavors. The barley is primarily
air-dried, hence the absence of a significant peat presence.
Washington Retail Price: $44.95 per 750ml
Cask Strength – 116.8 Proof 
This product is a relative newcomer to the United States, making
it’s debut in 2002. Fans of cask strength malts will love the spicy
nose and woody flavors. The flavor profile is “bigger” on nearly all
points with the exception of floral flavors. You’ll find more malt,
wood, spice and dried fruit here. 12 year old Macallan is the
primary component of the bottle, with 10 or 14 year barrels blended
in to achieve the desired strength. This is why you won’t find an
age statement on the label.
Washington Retail Price: $52.40 per 750ml
1861 Replica – 85.4 Proof
From The Macallan website: “In 1998 The Macallan acquired a very
rare bottle of 1861 from a private collection, and presented Bob
Dalgarno, Whisky Maker, with the formidable challenge of replicating
it”. Bob and his team then had the terrible job of tasting scores of
samples from aging casks in Craigellachie and comparing the flavor
profiles to the 1861 bottle. In the end, they blended 28 casks
 together
and achieved what they believe to be an authentic replica. The
result
 is
a malt surprisingly lighter in color than the modern 12 year, but
sharing the same citrus, dried fruit, and spice characters.
Definitely more wood and smoke, with less emphasis on toffee.
The bottle itself is a work of art. It is a replica of the hand
blown bottles used in the 19th century, complete with air bubbles
and randomly created irregularities. No two bottles are the same.
Washington Retail Price: $179.95 per 750ml (Special Order)
1841 Replica – 83.4 Proof
The story here is the same as for the 1861. The 1841 bottle that was
found is also unique in that it is the
 oldest
surviving glass bottle of The Macallan. During the early-mid 1800s,
most whisky was sold in stoneware jars 10 times larger than this
free-blown glass bottle. The shift to glass began after the glass
tax was repealed in 1845.
 A
whisky properly stored in a glass vessel does not change (much) over
time, so it is likely this sample tasted much as it did 150+ years
ago. With that in mind, Bob Dalgarno created a malt pale gold in
color with an orangy citrus nose and a complex palate of wood,
fruit, peat and spice. The peat in particular is more pronounced
than you might expect from a bottle of The Macallan. The long fruity
finish is a surprise coming from a bottle that looks this old.
Washington Retail Price: $199.95 per 750ml (Special Order)
Kudos to Bob Dalgarno and The Macallan Distillery for spending
the time and money to share a little piece of whisky history with
the 21st century consumer. Thanks also to Caspar MacRae and the
University of Washington Alumni Association for a delightful event!
More info at
www.themacallan.com or +44 (0) 1340 871471
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