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Published July 2004 |
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Summer Red:
Valpolicella
Courtesy of
30 Second Wine Advisor
By
Robin GarrMonday's sermon on Zinfandel with summery fare
from the charcoal grill drew a lot of E-mail responses, including
notes from a few of you who live in even hotter climes than I do,
commenting that it can be tough to enjoy a big, highly alcoholic red
wine when the Fahrenheit and the humidity both reach into the 90s at
the same time.
This is true. There are times when an ice-cold sparkling wine, a
light and fruity white or even a crisp, herbal rosé hit the spot.
But sometimes you're in the mood for a red, even when the
thermometer suggests white or pink.
Quite a few lighter-style reds fill this bill with fresh, fruity,
snappy but non-tannic flavor profiles that can even take a light
chill. We'll sample several of them over the next couple of months;
today, let's turn to a Northeastern Italian red-wine favorite,
Valpolicella.
Valpolicella, a pretty region in the hills between Verona and
Lake Garda, lost some of its luster within the past generation
because, for a time, much of the exported product was inexpensive,
uninteresting mass-market vino. But times and tastes have changed,
and much of the Valpolicella sold around the world nowadays has
returned to the regional style that made it famous in the first
place: Juicy and fresh, light-bodied and easy to quaff, with a
characteristic scent of dried cherries that makes it relatively easy
to recognize and just as easy to enjoy.
Valpolicella also makes bigger wines: The majestic and powerful
Amarone and the hearty Valpolicella Ripasso, made by returning young
Valpolicella to casks just vacated by the previous season's Amarone.
But for pleasurable summer sipping, I recommend sticking with the
simpler stuff, whether it's the basic bottling or Valpolicella
Classico (made from grapes grown in the region's central and
purportedly more desirable vineyards) or Valpolicella Classico
Superiore (made under somewhat more stringent production rules). |
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ACINUM 2000 VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO SUPERIORE RONDINELLA ($11.99)
The mention of "Rondinella" on the label suggests that this wine
is made predonominantly with this variety in place of the usual
Corvina in the blend, an odd thing since Corvina is generally
considered the better variety. The formula works in this case,
though, as this clear-garnet wine is a ripe and fruity delight. The
aroma mingles characteristic Valpolicella dried cherries with a
distnctly toasty, almost charred note. Light in body but big in
fruit, it's juicy and fresh in flavor, with gently snappy acidity
somewhat cloaked by fruit but sufficient for balance. U.S. importer:
VIAS Imports Ltd., NYC. (June 4, 2004)
FOOD MATCH: An excellent match with lamb burgers made with
a touch of Asian spice.
VALUE: Fairly priced in the $10 to $12 range.
WHEN TO DRINK: Valpolicella is meant to drink young. I
would finish up this 2000 within the coming year.
PRONUNCIATIONS: "Acinum" = "Ah-chee-num" "Valpolicella" =
"Vahl-poe-lee-CHEL-lah" "Rondinella" = "Rohn-dee-NEL-lah"
WEB LINK: This link goes to the
importer's website, but I can find no information there about
Acinum.
FIND THIS WINE ONLINE: Seek vendors and compare prices for
Acinum Valpolicella on
Wine-Searcher.com. |
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ALLEGRINI 2001 VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO ($13.99)
Inky dark garnet, almost black in color, this wine shows reddish-
violet glints when held up to the light. Typical dried-cherry
Valpolicella aromas are accented with distinctly spicy notes that
hint of oak, but the producer's fact sheets indicate that it sees no
wood but is kept over the winter before bottling in glass-lined
cement tanks. Juicy and tart in flavor, ripe sour-cherry fruit is
balanced by mouth-watering acidity, with a lemony tang in the long
finish. Good, palate-cleansing food wine, a traditional blend of the
indigenous Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara grapes. U.S. importer:
Winebow Inc., NYC. (June 5, 2004)
FOOD MATCH: Fine with a Spanish-style rendition of arroz
con pollo, chicken and vegetables in saffron rice.
VALUE: Particularly with the strong Euro, I can't quibble
with a price below the mid-teens for quality Valpolicella. It's
worth shopping around, though, as some online vendors list it for
less than $10.
WHEN TO DRINK: Valpolicella isn't made for aging, and I
don't see this one evolving in the cellar. That being said, oak and
fruit and an acidic backbone should hold it for a few more years,
given decent storage.
PRONUNCIATIONS: "Allegrini" = "Ah-leh-green-ee"
WEB LINK: Here is the
winery's fact sheet on the 2001 Valpolicella.
FIND THIS WINE ONLINE: Find Allegrini Valpolicella on
Wine- Searcher.com |
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TALK ABOUT WINE ONLINE
Want to talk about this hot topic? You'll find a round-table online
discussion on today's topic in our interactive Wine Lovers'
Discussion Group, where you're always welcome to join in the
conversations about wine
here. If you prefer to comment
privately, feel free to send me E-mail at
wine@wineloverspage.com.
I'll respond personally to the extent that time and volume permit.
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Robin Garr is the creator of the
WineLover's Page.
Send email to
Robin Garr. |
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