Storing Wines to Allow Aging can be Quite a Gamble
By Bob Woehler
Maybe, but more often maybe not, because for the average wine
buyer there are just too many things to consider to assure that in
a few years that wine will be better.
Generally, Washington and other Pacific Northwest wines are ready
to drink the moment you take them from the winery or the store
shelf.
We are known for our fruit-forward wines, most of which can be
kept for a few years without losing any quality. Notice I said
without losing any quality, not gaining quality.
There is nothing finer than an older wine that has developed in
the bottle and aged to sublime perfection, but it doesn't happen too
often. And in some cases when you go to open one that you have laid
down for a few years, it's already starting to deteriorate.
Some winemakers purposely make wine for aging with the tannins,
acids and fruit balance to pull it off. However, the average
consumer probably doesn't have the knowledge to determine which wine
is better for aging and which is not.
Generally, Cabernet Sauvignons age the best of the red wines,
followed by Merlot, Syrah and Pinot noir. White wines that can age
are certain Rieslings, Semillon and perhaps a well-made chardonnay,
but watch out here.
Jancis Robinson's The Oxford Companion to Wines lists the
following table of agings in general terms: Cabernet Sauvignon can
age from four to 20 years; Merlot from two to 10; Pinot noir from
two to eight; Syrah four to 16; Riesling two to 30; and chardonnay
two to six. She doesn't mention Semillon, but that can age from 2 to
10 years easily.
Remember, it is a bad gamble to believe that a wine will get
better with aging.
What about the cellaring? The perfect conditions are in a cellar
or storage where the humidity is controlled, the temperature hovers
between a constant 55 and 60 degrees, it's dark and there are no
vibrations. Vibration, especially on top of a refrigerator, can
shake up a wine and shorten its self life a great deal, as can harsh
light.
So what's the average consumer to do?
First, store your wines in a closet, a crawl space is better and
a basement is best, and hope the temperature doesn't get much above
72 degrees. Hot temperatures can ruin a wine quickly. The worst
place to store wine, unless it's in a climate-controlled container,
is in the kitchen!
There are many manufactured wine storage containers from room
size to the size of a small refrigerator that can hold 24 to 2,400
bottles, but these can cost anywhere from $500 to $5,000. Most of us
can't afford this cost on top of the wine's cost.
Second, ask the wine maker just how long you should store it, not
necessarily to make it get better but to make sure it doesn't start
to deteriorate.
Then there is the tried and true method of buying a case and
opening a bottle every now and then to see how it's doing. If it
seems to be reaching its peak or starting to go down hill, you can
drink it up.
But what about the average buyer who probably can afford only one
$50 bottle at a time? When does this person open the bottle?
I know from personal experience that I have purchased perfectly
good, sometimes great, wines that became of lesser quality because I
forgot I had them and left them in the cellar too long.
Generally, I leave the aging to perfection stuff up to those
people who have quality wine cellars and enough wines to sample to
keep on top of the results. Most of the wines in my cellar are
consumed within days after I purchase them, with probably only about
20 percent going into my inner basement cellar for a few years
longer.
I do periodically poke around in that cellar to weed out the
really older wines, and occasionally find some 15- to 20-year-olds.
Most of the time I am not too disappointed. I rarely get lucky by
having a wine develop wonderful flavors and bouquet.
When that happens, it's nirvana, but it's chancy. 
Bob Woehler
has been writing about grapes and wines of the Pacific Northwest
since 1978. His columns appear twice monthly in the Tri-City
Herald in Tri-Cities, Wash. and in Wine
Press Northwest.
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e-mail to Bob Woehler
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