Atlantic City Wine Director Shares Favorite Washington Wines
By Bob Woehler
Those of us who have been drinking Washington wine for decades
know it's good stuff, but it was nice to have an outsider validate
that opinion recently.
Shawn Dore, wine director for Atlantic City's swank new casino
Borgata, which features a cellar with 15,000 bottles of wine and at
least five gourmet restaurants, did just that at the Taste
Washington event held in Kennewick a few weeks ago.
She was invited for a weeklong tour of our wine country by the
Washington Wine Commission, along with other wine buyers from
throughout the country. Their tour was capped off by a public
tasting of Washington wines at the Three Rivers Convention Center,
newly renamed the Toyota Convention Center.
I thought it would be a good idea to walk around the room with
her to report her opinions on some of wines.
Dore, who is originally from Canada, was written up in the
October issue of Wine Enthusiast, which had a feature story on 14 of
the country's most exciting casinos from a wine enthusiast's
viewpoint.
She was asked by the magazine if she thought women generally have
a better palate than men. "Yes, in general, although men who taste
often, like chefs or sommeliers, hone their skills," she replied.
I found that Dore indeed has an excellent palate, knows her stuff
and is a big fan of Washington wines.
Here are her comments on some of the wines that pleased her:
* Maryhill 2004 Viognier, Columbia Valley, $16 -- "Classic
Asian pear and white pepper backed up by zesty orange. Medium body
and a touch hot on the palate."
* Long Shadows 2004 Poet's Leap Riesling, $22 --
French-born Gilles Nicault crafted this wine from grapes from
Wahluke Slope. "Beautiful perfume with a touch of slate and petrol
on the nose. Well balanced with apple flavors. This would be a great
food wine."
* Novelty Hill 2004 Sauvignon Blanc, Columbia Valley, $18
-- "Toasty oak with some honey and lemons, lots of grip. It would be
a classic match with goat cheese and Chilean sea bass."
* Goose Ridge 2003 Chardonnay, $14 -- "Lot of nice oak
with baking spice and some caramel and vanilla. Very approachable
and integrated with nice butter qualities. Think lobster."
* Woodward Canyon 2002 Artist Series Cabernet Sauvignon, $44
-- "Nice integration of oak and berry fruit. Aromas of cocoa
powder. Red currants and dark berry flavors that linger on the
palate. When I have a wine like this, I'm ready for a steak."
* Forgeron Cellars 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley,
$30 -- Dore got to sample a husband-and-wife combination of
wines as Forgeron is made by Marie-Eve Gilla, the French-born wife
of Gilles Nicault. "Beautiful aromatics with syrahlike fruit along
with some currants. Flavors are more berries and some bell peppers.
It's smooth and balanced, and you just want to drink it again and
again."
* Hogue Cellars 2001 Genesis Merlot, Columbia Valley, $30
-- "Lots of jam fruit flavors with floral aromatics. Very enjoyable
raspberries and red cherries and a touch of herbs. We sell a lot of
this at our steakhouse. It goes great with lamb chops too."
* Canon de Sol 2003 Merlot, Columbia Valley, $24 -- "This
speaks Washington merlot. Very inviting nose with berries and
chocolate. Lively, delicious flavors with red berries and more
chocolate. A great, well-balanced wine that would match game and be
a beautiful match with lamb."
* Reininger 2002 Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, $32 --
"Reminds me of a classic Australian-style syrah. Inky color with
jammy fruit aromas and flavors. Long plums and blueberry flavors.
Great use of oak."

Bob Woehler
has been writing about grapes and wines of the Pacific Northwest
since 1978. His columns appear twice monthly in the Tri-City
Herald in Tri-Cities, Wash. and in Wine
Press Northwest.
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