|
 Aged
Champagne
By Scott Miller
I love surprises. Most recently, I was
pleasantly surprised by a delightful old bottle of a non-vintage
Chandon Reserve. I mean 15-20 years old. And this is
old for a sparkling wine that is intended, and usually is,
consumed with a year of it's release. But it went the distance,
and was all the better for it.
Now I was peripherally aware that one can age champagnes, or at
least that some of the more expensive, quality bubblies would last
20 years or more in a bottle, but I did not really appreciate the
development that aging could bring. I, in my ignorance, simply
thought it mostly meant they wouldn't go bad. Oh! The missed
opportunities of laying down champagnes along with my red wines...
I will be fixing this state of affairs!
I've always enjoyed champagne. But I typically purchased it by
the bottle when an occasion was upcoming, or to keep on hand, "in
case," and have only ever kept a bottle or two at most in the
cellar. Although I have had one or two of these sit in my cellar
for even two or three years, I had never before experienced a
truly aged bottle of champagne.
Typically, whether it is a noble French champagne such as a
Pol Roger, a premium California sparkler like
Gloria Ferrer,
or my favorite value-priced Spanish version from
Freixenet;
I enjoy the pale crispness and light acidity, with hints of nuts,
bread dough, and all the other adjectives used to describe the
flavors and sensations. The bright crispness, acidity and 'hints'
are the trademarks of a young sparkling wines.
But aged, you have a whole new experience. The color changes
from pale to rich golden amber. Hints are replaced with strong and
distinctive flavors. Acids are replaced with substantial body and
character. The "wine" comes through, but still with the verve and
mousse that the miracle of le
méthode champenoise creates. Aging
champagnes and sparkling wines is something I will be paying more
attention to -- I highly recommend it!
As it is said, to make good sparkling wine, one must begin with
good cuvée
wine. And to have a good aged sparkling wine, it is best to start
with one you know you like when young. Fortunately, it need not be
a high-priced "Special Occasion Only" vintage champagne. Getting
back to my pleasant surprise, the Non-Vintage Chandon Reserve
(according to Chandon, the "Reserve" receives additional age on
the yeast before disgorgement),
an enjoyable and modestly priced sparkling wine, developed nicely
indeed. The rich yellow color and full nutty/bready flavor, almost
like cashews, was remarkable!
I would not recommend an intentional aging of 15-20 years
for any but the finest of Champagnes (some
of which are, in fact, recommended for 20+ years in the cellar)
but 2-5 years for even the simplest of quaffable sparklers, and
5-10 years for the mid-range ($15-$25 bottles) should be not only
within the ability of the wine to stand the test of such time, but
most certainly will add enjoyment with the added dimensions that
will be revealed.
Get out and buy a few bottles to lay down today. You won't
regret it.
Enjoy!
|
|
