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The Importance of the
Importer
Courtesy of
30 Second Wine Advisor
By
Robin GarrWhen we learn to read wine labels, we begin
with the basics: Check for the winery or producer, the country or
region, the vintage and, if it's not assumed from the geographical
information given, the grape varieties used. Oh, yeah, and ... try
not to be influenced by the pretty picture or any laudatory
public-relations prose.
All this is good advice, and if you're still in that part of the
learning process, you might enjoy a visit to our brief, illustrated
Wine Label Decoder at
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wines/labels.shtml.
But today let's talk about an important line on the wine label
that's harder to find, as it's usually presented in microscopically
small print, way down at the bottom of the front label or buried in
a pile of technical data, legal warnings and other prose on the
bottle's backside.
I'm talking about the line that identifies the importer, the
hard-working individual or company that located the wine, negotiated
a deal with the producer, and went through the legal red tape and
paperwork required to bring it back to your country for distribution
and sale. (Never a trivial task, this has become even more
complicated for U.S. consumers in the post-9/11 era, when
influential pressure groups have pushed for new regulations in the
name of anti-terrorism that just happen to make it more difficult
than ever for small overseas producers and importers to get their
wines to consumers. But that's another story, for another day.)
Knowing where the wine came from, who made it, and what it's made
of is all important information. But for me, if the wine is
unfamiliar, then checking the importer's name will often sway the
"buy" or "don't-buy"
decision. Just like any merchant, an importer who's earned my trust
will often make the sale on the basis of his name alone; one who's
earned my disdain through lackluster product (or worse) will have a
tough time roping me in for another try.
Today's featured wine, a delicious obscurity from Colli di Luni,
a relatively little-known region of coastal Northwestern Italy, is
an offering from John Given, a New York-based importer who's earned
my strong trust with a narrow focus on just that sort of thing: All
Italian, all the time, cherry-picking a few very good producers
who've escaped the attention of larger importers. He's never failed
me yet.
Let's wrap up today's sermon with a short, idiosyncratic list of
U.S.
importers who consistently make my "good guys" list. If their
products are available to you, they deserve a second look. Listed
alphabetically:
* Ex Cellars Wine Agencies Inc., Solvang, Cailf. (France)
* John Given, Manhasset, N.Y. (Italian wines)
* Kermit Lynch, Berkeley, Calif. (Mostly European, predominantly
French)
* Kysela Pere & Fils, Winchester, Va. (European)
* Laurel Glen, Santa Rosa, Calif. (Argentina and Chile)
* Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, N.Y. (International; watch
particularly for Terry Theise selections from Germany, Austria and
Champagne)
* Palm Bay Imports, Boca Raton, Fla. (International, many French and
Italian)
* Robert Whale Selections, Washington, D.C. (Australia)
* VIAS Imports Ltd., NYC (Italian)
* Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, Ala. (France, South Africa)
* Vintner Select, Cincinnati (International, many French and
Italian)
* Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, Pa. (European)
* William Grant & Sons, NYC (France, Port)
* Wines of France Inc., Mountainside, N.J. (France)
Please note that this list is only a sample, not an unabridged
directory. I'm sure I've overlooked some favorites; moreover, not
all of these companies are represented in every state, and -
regretfully - these names will be of little or no use to our many
readers in other countries. I'd love to hear your suggestions,
though, wherever you live.
If you have a favorite importer, or several, that you'd like to tell
me about, please send me E-mail at
wine@wineloverspage.com,
or better yet, post your comment on our Wine Lovers' Discussion
Group forum, linked under "TALK ABOUT WINE ONLINE" just below.
I expect this invitation will yield a flood of mail, so please
accept my apologies in advance if I'm not able to respond personally
to them all.
Please be assured that I'll keep all your suggestions in a list and
make use of it in future reports. |
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AUXO LUNAE 2001 COLLI DI LUNI ROSSO ($18.99)
Inky dark-garnet, black at the core, this is a Chianti-like
blend of Sangiovese (70%), Canaiolo (15%) and the regional
Ciliegiolo grape (15%) from the undeservedly obscure region Colli di
Luni, an appellation that crosses the border between Tuscany and
Liguria near the Italian Riviera town of La Spezia. Plums and black
cherries mingle in an attractive fruit-and-spice aroma that adds
intriguing notes of gunflint and smoke. Ripe and juicy fruit flavors
center on tart cherries, with earthy and spice notes that follow the
nose. Firm tannins are present, but they're secondary to the fresh,
zippy fruit. U.S. importer: John Given Wines Co., Manhasset, N.Y.
(April 24, 2005)
FOOD MATCH: The simple flavors of a roast free-range
chicken made a perfect backdrop for this crisp, fruity red.
VALUE: Its upper-teens price pushes the edge of "everyday"
drinking for most of us, but in fairness, it's more than competitive
for a wine of this quality in the age of the puny dollar.
WHEN TO DRINK: Tannins, fruit and balance suggest some
aging potential, but all its components come together so nicely now
that it would be a shame to hold it until the fruit has fled. I'd
drink it up over the next year or so.
PRONUNCIATION:
Colli di Luni = "Coe-lee dee Loo-nee"
WEB LINK:
John Given's Website offers detailed information about the importer
and his portfolio. To go directly to the Auxo Lunae page, click
http://www.jgwines.com/Factsheets/lunaeAUXO01.html
FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:
Find prices and vendors for Colli di Luni on
Wine-Searcher.com.
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