Pioneer Winemaker Keeping Thurston Wolfe Thriving in Prosser
By Bob Woehler
Thurston Wolfe in Prosser is a perfect example
of how an outstanding small family winery develops.
The winery operated by Wade Wolfe and his wife Becky Yeaman has
moved into nice new digs in the evolving winery park developed by
the Port of Benton.
What makes the winery stand out among the 300 or so in the state
is that it's experimenting with lesser-known varieties like
Zinfandel, Lemberger, Petite Sirah and Orange Muscat.
Thurston Wolfe also is making some fine wines from more common
varietals, such as its 2003 Burgess Syrah that won a double platinum
at Wine Press Northwest's annual Best of the Best Tasting late last
fall. Sorry, it's sold out.
More recently, the Thurston Wolfe 2002 Destiny Ridge Cabernet
Sauvignon won a gold and ranked fifth in a judging of 130 cabernets
by Wine Press Northwest. The results are in the spring edition of
the magazine that is due out March 15.
And guess what? These wines or any of the Thurston Wolfe wines
are bargain priced, with the Cabernet selling for $20.
The spacious new winery with its inviting tasting room, complete
with fireplace and long wine bar, is a striking example of the
metamorphosis of a pioneer Washington winemaker.
Wolfe grew up in California and earned a doctorate in viticulture
and plant genetics from the University of California at Davis.
He decided to head to the new wine region in Washington, joining
Chateau Ste. Michelle in 1978, and eventually became vineyards
director for the Pacific Northwest's largest winery operation.
Wolfe always yearned to make his own wines and left Chateau Ste.
Michelle in 1985, opening his own vineyard consulting business,
which he still does today. He also took over winemaking duties at
Hyatt Vineyards.
His idea was to have his own winery. He met a kindred spirit in
1987 when he married Yeaman, who was operating the tasting room at
nearby Covey Run Vintners outside Zillah.
At first Thurston Wolfe, named after Wolfe's mother and father,
focused on dessert wines.
The Wolfe-Yeaman combination opened their first winery in a
downtown Yakima storefront, and in 1991, with the assurance he could
still make wines with his own label, Wolfe accepted the position as
general manager of production at Hogue Cellars in Prosser.
In the meantime, the couple opened a Thurston Wolfe Winery one
block away in the Prosser Business park.
By 2004, wine sales reached 3,000 cases and Wolfe decided to
leave Hogue and devote full time to his own operation. He
immediately planned construction of the facility that opened earlier
this year in the Port of Benton winery park just off Interstate 82
at the north end of Prosser.
And now, a visit on Merlot Drive off Exit 80 on the freeway is a
must-stop for those visiting Prosser wineries. A sample of some of
my favorites includes:
2005 PGV, a Pinot Gris-Viognier blend, $15 -- Citrus and
jasmine aromas with orange and apricot overtones. These carry
through to the flavors of a fresh, long, lush and crisp wine.
2003 Howling Wolfe Zinfandel, Zephyr Ridge Vineyards, $20
-- Wolfe has been making Zin for 14 years and has really got it
down. It contains 10 percent Petite Sirah and is a delicious,
full-bodied wine packed with ripe berry flavors and touches of
chocolate.
2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Destiny Ridge Vineyard, $20 --
Just released, this wine has oak and dark currant aromas. Intense
yet smooth tannins with a charming cherry, chocolate and vanilla
farewell.
2004 Petite Sirah Zephyr Ridge Vineyard, $20 -- Developed
from the Durif grape in the late 1800s in France when a Dr. Durif
crossed Syrah and Peloursin. It's a great blending wine, Wolfe says.
Lots of nice oak and strawberry components along with smooth
chocolate flavors.
2004 Sweet Rebecca Orange Muscat, $15 -- A real sweetie
with 12 percent residual sugar, offering honey and tangerines and a
hint of orange rind aromas.
2004 JTW port $20 -- The "J" is for son Josh. A classic
Portuguese style with 50 percent Touriga, 25 percent Petite Sirah
and 25 percent Cabernet Sauvignon. This makes for a smooth, intense,
sweet after-dinner sipper.
Bob Woehler, a retired Herald
staff writer, has been writing a column about wines of the Pacific
Northwest since 1978. Send him e-mail at bwoehler@charter.net or
check out his past columns at Wine
Press Northwest.
|
