...Search
 

Few things turn me on like finding a great cabernet sauvignon for under $10. That's exactly what happened at January's Wine Press Northwest tasting of 128 cabs when Columbia Crest's everyday 2002 Grand Estates placed in the top six of the judging with an outstanding rating. Wine Press Northwest's "outstanding" rating is equivalent to a gold medal.

This is an extraordinary everyday occasion cabernet sauvignon that was produced in abundance, numbering 97,000 cases. That's more than the total wine production of 96 percent to 98 percent of the Pacific Northwest's 750 wineries. Consequently, it is available almost anywhere you can buy wine and currently is selling in the $9 range.

I've always marveled about Columbia Crest, which is the largest winery in the Pacific Northwest. Ray Einberger is the head winemaker, but it's a team production at this giant facility near Paterson.

Don't get me wrong: The hand-crafted, small lot-produced cabernet can reach the height of delight at a judging, but it's special when a low-cost, mass-produced brand gains acclaim.

Don't get the Columbia Crest Grand Estate mixed up with the Columbia Crest Reserve Cab and the Columbia Crest Two Vines. The reserve is a $30 cabernet from special lots of grapes and is virtually handcrafted with 4,000 cases produced. The two vines is the everyday type of low-cost cabernet often on sale for under $7 with a whopping 200,000 cases produced. The 2003 two vines and the 2002 reserve received excellent ratings in the judging, the equivalent of silver medals.

Back to the Columbia Crest 2002 Grand Estates cabernet sauvignon. It's virtually treated by the winemaking team as a reserve.

Here is what Einberger said about this baby: "A medium-bodied Washington cabernet sauvignon with supple tannins that is packed with intense black cherry, cocoa and smoke. Complex, rich and aromatic, this stylish wine offers balance and finesses from the start."

Boy, did it have balance and finesses. If ever there was a fruit-forward, ready-to-drink-now, delicious red wine, this is it.

But let's not concentrate solely on this gem, as there were several other outstanding-rated wines in the tasting.

The top five ahead of the Columbia Crest Grand Estates included the following:

-- Boudreaux Cellars 2003, Washington, $40 -- A small new winery near Leavenworth. The winemaker is a fishing pal of Gary Figgins of Leonetti Cellars, so you can guess there is plenty of wine talk between casting for a fat trout. Complex black cherries, plums and a bit of oak aromas in the rich flavors with an elegantly structured and complex long finish.

-- Widgeon Hills Winery 2003 Boushey Vineyards, Yakima Valley, $28 -- This tiny shed-sized Chehalis winery is the legacy of Joel Mills. It's a stunner with mocha and dark fruit beginnings that lead to what was described as a fine bowl of ripe blackberries and raspberries. Easy tannins and a lingering finish of berries.

-- Zerba Cellars 2003 Walla Walla Valley, $30 -- Probably the hottest new winery in the Walla Walla Valley, and it's in Milton-Freewater. Alluring aromas of loganberries, leather and pepper. Bold blackberry and juicy cherry flavors give this a great mouth feel with a memorable chocolate finish.

-- Three Rivers Winery 2003 Champoux Vineyards, Columbia Valley, $50 -- You get so you expect great things from winemaker Holly Turner. She starts with great fruit, and it's off to the races. Fruit-forward currants and black cherry flavors and aromas. The aromas also include oak, vanilla and coffee. A smooth entry delights with juicy berries and chocolate with wonderful tannins.

-- Thurston Wolfe Winery 2002 Destiny Ridge, Washington, $20 -- Wade Wolfe is turning heads in Prosser with his finely produced wines. Ready to drink now but will improve with a year or two of bottle age. Bold black cherries and raspberry aromas open to more full-bodied chewy berry flavors, great acidity, bold tannins and a pinch of black pepper.

Three other wines right after the Columbia Crest Grand Reserve were rated outstanding.

-- Maryhill Winery 2003 Proprietor's Reserve, $30 -- Oak and spice aromas with tasty cherries and tart blackberry flavors. The rich fruit lingers.

-- Soos Creek Cellars 2003 Ciel du Cheval Vineyards, $33 -- This fine Red Mountain wine has plenty of red raspberries and currant aromas and flavors with hints of tobacco and olives along with some chocolate.

-- Tsillan Cellars, 2003 Columbia Valley, $23 -- Great fruit and acidity is a hallmark of a classic cabernet. Aromas of cherry flavors and pipe tobacco.



 
Bob Woehler, a retired Herald staff writer, has been writing a column about wines of the Pacific Northwest since 1978. Send him e-mail at bwoehler@charter.net or check out his past columns at Wine Press Northwest.

Questions and 
answers about wine.