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Pinot gris is a rising-star white wine that is fruity, tasty and food friendly. It's the No. 1 white wine in Oregon and very popular at a few Washington wineries.

I reconfirmed my admiration for this wine when Wine Press Northwest did a judging of 77 pinot gris bottlings this spring.

Pinot gris, which also can go under the Italian name of pinot grigio, is meant to drink now.

This was brought home in the tasting, in which all nine pinot gris that were judged outstanding were fall 2005 harvest.

Oregon wineries dominated the results, but there were several outstanding and excellent pinot gris bottlings from Mid-Columbia wineries, including Maryhill, Pontin Del Roza and Hogue Cellars.

The Oregon Wine Board says pinot gris is a natural mutation of its ancestor, pinot noir. In fact, the pinot noir grape mutates more readily than any other major variety. Pinot blanc also comes from pinot noir.

Pinot gris grapes mature early. The wine can be released and ready to drink six to eight months after harvest, depending on the style and winemaker choices. Picked early, the wine tends to be light and fruity. When the grapes are left to hang a bit longer, the wine takes on a richer and sweeter flavor. Pinot gris is best drunk within five or six years.

A couple of widely recognized styles were described by Wine Enthusiast magazine:

"Oregon style -- medium bodied; yellow to copper-pink color; crisp, lively flavors with aromas of pear, apple and/or melon.

"Pinot grigio -- light-bodied, often lean; light in color; neutral, sometimes spritzy flavors, crisp and acidic."

Both styles were evident in the Wine Press Northwest tasting.

Pinot gris is food friendly, matching well with crab, sturgeon, rabbit and chicken.

I especially liked it with Copper River sockeye salmon that I grilled in an aluminum foil boat. The salmon was covered with fresh lemon slices, Walla Walla Sweet onion slices, salt and pepper and, of course, floating in a pinot gris bath. My guests agreed it was yummy and a gastronomic treat when served with a crisp cool glass of pinot gris.

Mid-Columbia standouts

Several Mid-Columbia wines kept up with their Oregon cousins in the tasting and are often less expensive.

Maryhill 2005 pinot gris, Columbia Valley, $15 -- Bring a splash of spring or summer to the occasion. A nose of orange sorbet and ripe citrus with a dusting of powdered sugar. This pinot gris is a pleaser. Enjoy the flavors of grapefruit and crisp Granny Smith apples with a crisp, clean springtime finish.

Pontin Del Roza 2005 pinot grigio, Yakima Valley, $16 -- Five years ago, Scott Pontin produced the top Washington wine in a previous pinot gris judging, and he hasn't lost his touch. Nice orchard fruit aromas, mainly apricots and apples, yield to delicious tropical fruit flavors with a steely structure and some tart lime acidity.

Hogue Cellars 2005, pinot grigio, Columbia Valley, $10 -- The 2005 vintage has up-front aromas of pear and white peach with hints of almonds, vanilla and cherries. Flavors are similar: Rich and soft, with pear and peach. Serve this wine with light pasta dishes, shrimp, chicken fettuccini Alfredo or anything you would pair with chardonnay.

Sandhill Winery 2005 Ridgefield, Columbia Valley, $10 -- Aromas of apples, pears and orange zest along with licorice and mint create a zest on the tongue.

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2005, Columbia Valley, $13 -- Offers fresh aromas and flavors of ripe honeydew melon and crisp green apple. The winemaker says a touch of Viognier contributes an attractive floral note. This wine has an elegant finish and a refreshing crispness that makes it food friendly.

Covey Run 2004 Quail Series pinot grigio, Columbia Valley, $9 -- Crisp and clean with slightly tangy citrus and nutty flavors. Pair this refreshing wine with light or slightly oily seafood, especially salmon, as well as other light meats or pasta dishes.

Columbia Crest Winery 2004 grand estates pinot grigio, Columbia Valley, $11 -- Fresh-cut apples and washed river stone aromas lead to nice pear flavors with hints of orange zest. Mouth-filling with delicious length.

Notables from Oregon

There also were a couple of Oregon gems to seek out that were produced in pretty good numbers and should be available on the Internet.

Benton-Lane 2005, Willamette Valley, $16 -- Pale straw-colored and displays generous floral, citrus, pear and tropical fruit aromas. On the palate this balanced wine is supple with citrus, floral, mango and other tropical fruit flavors.

Elk Cove Vineyards 2005 Willamette Valley, $18 -- Aromas of white flowers such as honeysuckle hint of springtime freshness while lending notes of crispness with citrus and grapefruit. A full and satisfying balanced finish. Drink as an aperitif or with a variety of food pairings from salmon and main course salads to Asian- and Thai-influenced dishes.



 
Bob Woehler, a retired Herald staff writer, has been writing a column about wines of the Pacific Northwest since 1978. Send him e-mail at bwoehler@charter.net or check out his past columns at Wine Press Northwest.

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