A Look Back at Where Washington Wine Began
By Bob Woehler
Thirty years ago this month, Bill Preston of Pasco and Mike
Wallace of Prosser launched what became the Mid-Columbia wine
industry.
Not in their wildest dreams did the two think that in three
decades there would be more than 250 wineries in Eastern Washington.
This column is a tribute to Preston Premium Wines and Hinzerling
Vineyards, which helped start it all 30 grape harvests ago.
Since I was sampling those first wines from 1976 when both
wineries released them, I thought it appropriate to reminisce a bit
and sample some recent Preston and Hinzerling wines, then finish up
with a couple of old favorites.
Preston was a Pasco businessman who owned a farm along Highway
395 north of Pasco. He built a showcase winery that became the
state's first destination winery, with manicured grounds and a deck
overlooking his green vineyards and facing the rosy sunsets behind
Rattlesnake Mountain.
Wallace, with help from his parents Dee and Jerry, founded
Hinzerling Vineyards as a more modest endeavor in an old truck
repair garage along Highway 12 in Prosser. Wallace still does most
of the greeting of visitors to his winery. The main difference today
is that he's opened a bed and breakfast next door.
Preston, who died five years ago, was an aggressive ambassador of
his wines in particular and Washington wines in general. His
attitude was sorely needed in the fledgling industry's early days.
Wallace also was an ambassador and spoke with the knowledge of a
trained winemaker. He once was quoted in Time magazine about the
potential of the state's wine industry. Trained at the University of
California-Davis, Wallace also was a research assistant for Walter
Clore, the acknowledged father of the Washington wine industry.
Preston was named earlier this year as the first member of the
industry's Legends Hall of Fame at the center.
Wallace also helped found the annual Prosser Wine and Food
Festival and the Yakima Valley Winegrower Association.
The two men enjoyed a symbiotic relationship. In the late '70s
when Preston was in between winemakers, he called on Wallace to
consult for him until he could make a hire.
Today, Preston's winery attracts thousands of visitors,
especially during its weekly Friday Vino Notte, an evening of wine,
food and music.
Hinzerling is planning an event of its own with a 30th
anniversary dinner and tasting Saturday at the Vintners Inn Bed and
Breakfast grounds starting at 6 p.m. For reservations, call
1-800-727-6702.
Now to tasting three current wines and a vintage wine from each
winery:
Preston 2003 Gamay Noir, Columbia Valley, $10 -- This
Preston star for decades has cranberry color and aromas with bright
fresh berry flavors. Exceedingly enjoyable at any picnic.
Preston 2005 Sauvignon Blanc, Columbia Valley, $11 --
Lemons come to mind when sniffing this well balanced, fruit-forward
white with crisp citrus overtones.
Preston 2003 Merlot, Columbia Valley, $15 -- The Prestons
consider Merlot their forte and this is no exception. Inviting
chocolate and oak aromas backed by smooth blackberry flavors with a
great finish.
Preston 1986 Riesling ice wine, Columbia Valley -- This
has changed into more of a cream sherry dessert wine but retains its
classic honeyed peach character. Yummy and would be sumptuous poured
over pound cake.
Hinzerling nonvintage Ashfall white, Yakima Valley, $9.99
-- The ashfall name comes from the dusting Mount St. Helens did in
1980, and it has stuck for every vintage since. An attractive blend
of mostly Gewurztraminer and Chardonnay with a wee bit of riesling.
Showing off pineapple and citrus with a semisweet grapefruit finish.
Hinzerling 2003 Lemberger, Yakima Valley, $14.99 --
Popular with its ripe plum aromas and blueberry flavors, it's nicely
balanced, smooth and flavorful.
Hinzerling tawny port, Yakima Valley, $48.99 -- Worth
waiting for. A classic port from Cabernet Sauvignon. Nutty character
with sweet caramel and date flavors and a kick top its finish.
Hinzerling 1980 Cabernet Sauvignon, Yakima Valley -- A
pleasing bouquet of berries and oak leads to cherry and berry
flavors. A very drinkable 26-year-old.
Bob Woehler has been writing a
biweekly column about wines of the Pacific
Northwest since 1978. Send him e-mail at
bwoehler@charter.net. |
