Tastes of Three New Walla Walla Wineries
By Bob Woehler
Selecting three new Walla Walla wineries to write about is like
shooting fish in a barrel.
The Walla Walla Wine Alliance estimates there are now 73 wineries
in the Walla Walla Valley and licenses for 35 more, so it was no
problem finding three new ones.
I decided to pick an area between Walla Walla and Milton-Freewater
bordering the wheat fields and Blue Mountains. This is an area of
impressive houses and acreages and is home to such well known
wineries as Pepper Bridge, Glen Fiona and Northstar.
The three wineries selected were Va Piano, Gifford
Hirlinger and Dusted Valley. All will be participating in
the annual Walla Walla Valley Wine Alliance Holiday barrel tasting
Dec. 1-3. The annual event begins with a gala dinner Nov. 30 at the
Marcus Whitman Hotel.
Dusted Valley
Dusted Valley seems to have drawn the most notice, especially after
two of its Syrahs earned top honors in Wine Press Northwest Syrah
judging earlier this year. Considering there were 129 syrahs
entered, it's quite a feat to walk off with the top two wines.
And that's from two former Wisconsin cheesehead families, Corey
and Cindy Braunel and Chad and Janet Johnson.
The two women are sisters, and while they loved the cheese, beer
and brat atmosphere of Wisconsin, they were attracted to the wine
and salmon allure of the Pacific Northwest. And there is some pretty
good cheese produced in Washington and Oregon.
Like a lot of people outside the region, they had read national
articles praising the growing Walla Walla region. Both couples now
live in the Walla Walla Valley and the winery is a tiny operation in
the Braunels' basement garage.
Dusted Valley hopes to emulate Kiona Vineyards and Winery of
Benton City, which became one of the most successful garage wineries
in the Pacific Northwest.
Dusted Valley 2005 Chardonnay, Columbia Valley, $20 --
Barrel fermented in neutral oak that doesn't get in the way of the
wonderful tropical fruity aromas and flavors. Think pineapple, kiwi
with a hint of almonds.
Dusted Valley 2005 Viognier, Yakima Valley, $20 -- Very
aromatic with scents of orange sherbet and vanilla ice cream. Smooth
and balanced with a lingering crisp citrus finish.
Dusted Valley 2004 reserve Syrah, Columbia Valley, $32 --
Sold out at the winery. Bold and rich with over-the-top berry aromas
and some chocolate. Flavors are huge and rich with bright purple
fruit, sturdy tannins and more chocolate.
Dusted Valley 2004 Stained Tooth Syrah, Columbia Valley, $24
-- The name is funky but the wine is not. Boysenberries and violets
float out from the glass to meet you. Wonderful smooth berry flavors
with great tannins and a yummy, velvety finish.
On the Net:
www.dustedvalley.com
Va Piano
Va Piano Vineyards is the Wylie family living the Italian dream in
Walla Walla. Piano in Italian means softly.
The new Tuscan-style winery at the foothills of the Blue
Mountains came about because of winemaker Justin Wylie's friendship
with Father Bruno Segatta, a former assistant dean at Gonzaga who
led a Spokane-to-Florence, Italy, study program that Wylie joined
one year.
Wylie, a fourth-generation Walla Walla resident, and his wife Liz
already knew about the wine potential of the region. They planted
their first grapes in 2000 with the long-term goal of building a
winery styled after what he had seen in Tuscany.
One of his wines today is called Bruno's Blend, a nonvintage red
in honor of his former professor.
Va Piano nonvintage Bruno's Blend, $23 -- A blend of 73
percent Syrah, 18 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 9 percent Merlot.
It opens with bing cherries and plums and closes with blueberries.
Mellow and chalky with good acids to serve with a steak.
Va Piano 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, $38 -- Loaded with smoky
oak and blackberry aromas followed by flavors that range from a
delicious chocolate brownie to a bowl of ripe berries.
Va Piano 2004 Syrah, $38 -- Leather and smoky bacon with
smooth lingering dark cherry flavors.
On the Net:
www.vapianovineyards.com
Gifford Hirlinger
Gifford Hirlinger Winery is named after two Walla Walla pioneers
related to wine maker Mike Berghan, who developed the winery with
his wife Melissa and parents Peter and Stephanie. Although the
Berghans have roots in Walla Walla, they were living in Sandpoint,
Idaho, when Mike was bitten by the wine bug.
As do Woodward Canyon and Spring Valley wineries, the Berghans
decided to honor pioneers on the label. The new winery celebrates
its first anniversary Dec. 1 by releasing two wines.
Gifford Hirlinger 2003 Stateline Red, $22 -- Toasty oak
and chocolate aromas with some juicy raspberry and spice flavors.
Lively acids.
Gifford Hirlinger 18 Below Red, $20 -- Named after a
winter night when the vineyard temperatures dipped to 18 below zero.
A blend of 70 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 30 percent Merlot.
Flavors and aromas of a mix of berries with some gripping tannins
yet balanced to enjoy now.
Bob Woehler has been writing a
biweekly column about wines of the Pacific
Northwest since 1978. Send him e-mail at
bwoehler@charter.net. |
