Riesling Making a Remarkable Comeback
By Bob Woehler
The comeback of Riesling as Washington's top
white wine was emphasized by the dedication of Pacific Rim
winery's new $5.7 million facility in West Richland.
The new winery, owned by Californian Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon
Vineyards, will focus almost entirely on Riesling.
About 30 years ago, Riesling was the most notable wine grape in
Washington, but it soon was eclipsed by Chardonnay, Cabernet
Sauvignon and Merlot.
Heck, I even tasted a wonderful Riesling made by Gary Figgins at
Leonetti Cellar about 28 years ago.
Having visited the German homeland of Riesling on the Rhine and
Mosel valleys, I didn't have to be convinced of its virtues. But
Grahm published his Riesling Manifesto 1918-1999 to praise the
virtues of the grape for those who aren't convinced.
"Riesling is the world's most misunderstood and under-appreciated
grape variety, like Cinderella a princess relegated to the status of
a charwoman," he wrote.
That's a bit dated because since Grahm co-authored this
light-hearted pamphlet, Riesling has made a remarkable comeback in
Washington.
"The early growers liked Riesling because it was dependable and
could be made in many styles," noted Andy Perdue, editor in chief of
Wine Press Northwest magazine. "Washington's Chateau Ste. Michelle
produces the most Riesling wine in the world -- up to 600,000 cases
a year. Now the grape is making a comeback, with 23,800 tons of
Riesling grapes crushed in 2006 -- up 27 percent from 2005. And last
year, 4,404 acres in Washington were planted in Riesling, double the
acreage of 2002."
Robin Pollard, executive director of the Washington Wine
Commission, predicted that Riesling might overtake Chardonnay in
terms of production in the state by 2008.
Grahm attributes the grape's renewed popularity to more refined
wine drinkers.
"As wine drinkers mature, their tastes become more refined — they
don't want the heavy alcohol and are looking for something lighter
and more pleasant," he said.
Perdue wrote, "The move toward fusion cuisine hasn't hurt either.
Rieslings are particularly suited to enjoy with food because they
complement virtually any style of food -- sweet, salty, savory and
spicy, including Thai."
At the dedication in April, four Pacific Rim wines were served
that should be released this June and in supermarkets not too much
later.
Pacific Rim dry Riesling, Washington, $10 -- Very floral
and crisp. Aromas of orchard fruit and jasmine. The flavors are lush
with citrus, primarily oranges, with a squirt of lemon, grapefruit
and melon.
Pacific Rim sweet Riesling, Washington, $10 -- It's at
about 8 percent residual sugar, but it's saved by the great crisp
acidity of the natural fruit. There are plenty of pineapple, peach
and sweet apples inside.
Pacific Rim Vin de Glaciere, Washington, $10 -- This comes
in a half bottle and is an elixir of a dessert wine with candied
apricots, pear and orange blossoms.
Pacific Rim Chenin Blanc, Washington, $10 -- An old
favorite of mine. This slightly sweet, yet crisp, wine has flavors
of pears and melons and a hint of grapefruit.
* * *
Every now and then while tasting wines, I come across one or two
that hit my "wow" button. The following two haven't won any major
awards that I know of, but they were a hit with me.
Chinook Wines 2005 Cabernet Franc, Yakima Valley, $20 --
Winemaker Kay Simon says the minimal processing regime at Chinook
produces a Cab Franc that is soft, drinkable and low in tannin.
I say amen to that! I've seldom found a red that tasted better.
It features wonderful plum and boysenberry aromas that follow
through with ever-so-smooth sweet boysenberry and plum flavors.
Kiona Vineyards and Winery 2005 Chenin Blanc, Columbia Valley,
$12 -- When I started tasting wines for a living nearly 30 years
ago, Chenin Blanc was one of my favorite whites. It was a great
introduction to wine for someone whose tastes began with bulk white
wines made from Thompson seedless grapes in California.
The 2005 vintage is a charmer with citrus, melon and pear aromas.
It's then met on the palate with a slightly sweet taste of mixed
fruit and a tart apple finish. Just right for fish or fowl.
Bob Woehler, a retired Herald
staff writer, has been writing a column about wines of the Pacific
Northwest since 1978. Send him e-mail at
bwoehler@charter.net. |
