|
Photo
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Contact
Information |
|
|
Compass Wines
1405 Commercial Ave
Anacortes, WA 98221
email: Doug Charles
phone: 360.293.6500 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Recommendations |
|
|
Wines
|
|
|
|
|
|
Favorite
Links |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
Biography |
|
|
Home > People
> Doug Charles |
|
|
Doug Charles
Co-Founder, Compass Wines
|
|
|
Doug Charles, a graduate of the Hotel and Restaurant program at
WSU, brings over 20 years of prominent restaurant and consulting
experience to the wine industry. As well as stints at several
Seattle area establishments, he has also spent time in the San
Juans, and most recently 15 years managing restaurants on
Chuckanut drive, including both ‘The Oyster Bar’, and ‘Oyster
Creek Inn’. His consulting experience, in both food and wine, has
varied from creating a significant personal wine cellar on a yacht
based on the east coast, to recipes for a major frozen food
manufacturer. He has also produced wine lists for numerous
restaurants, provided marketing assistance for Washington wineries
and established a food and beverage program for a facility
servicing private and corporate jets.
Doug has also been featured in numerous books and publications,
and has judged many local and regional wine competitions. His
comprehensive public tastings of rare, older Washington wines from
such vintages as 1979, 1983 and 1985 have established him as an
authority on the premium wines of Washington State.
Doug co-founded ‘Compass
Wines’, with his business partner Will Parks, in Anacortes in
2001. Their goal is to provide a retail store that offers rare and
past vintage Washington wines, controlled wine storage, and
difficult to find wines from around the US and the world. They
feature current and past vintage wines from such producers as
Leonetti, Quilceda Creek, Cayuse and Bunchgrass from Washington;
and Silver Oak, Harlan and Opus 1 from California on a regular
basis. On any given day you can expect them to have a number of
wines from these producers available for sale.
Doug resides with his wife and son on a farm in Skagit County.
He may be contacted at
doug@compasswines.com.
|
|
|
|
Personal
Picks |
|
|
Veuve de Vernay Brut (France) $8
We have all had those crappy, fake Champagnes at weddings and
Christmas parties before, so we all know how bad they can be so
why not be your local champion of the ‘GBCBHFNMMS’ (Great Bubbly
Can Be Had For Not Much Money Society)? The Veuve de Vernay Brut
is the best value sparkling wines I have seen in many a moon,
and quite possibly ever! Yes, it is French, yes it is made from
Champagne style grapes and yes, it has all the class and
elegance in the packaging as well. However, as it comes from an
area that is outside the confines of the legal appellation of
Champagne, they cannot carry that moniker. It is delicious and
bright enough to enjoy on its own, yet inexpensive (cheap)
enough to make into punch, mimosas and cocktails.
|
|
|
Four Bears Chardonnay Central Coast 2004 (California) $13
Chardonnay is making a big comeback, and this wine is a good
reason why. Fat and juicy, with pineapple, honeydew and buttered
popcorn notes. Bigger than those popular unwooded Chardonnays
but not one of those splinter laden oak bombs. Napa Chardonnay
has for the most part become very spendy, so this is a
refreshing change of pace. Normally this wine is about $15.00,
but right now it is only $13. A heck of a deal for a great
Indian summer white that is just screaming out for game bird,
alder planked salmon or porridge (only kidding).
|
|
|
Kripta Cava NV (Spain) $65
Many of you last year were enthralled by the incredible
packaging and wine in the Kripta Cava from Spain, only to see it
sell out before you could latch on to a bottle or two. This
year, supply is even more scarce (about 100 bottles for the
entire West Coast of the U.S.). The unbelievable packaging alone
makes this bubbly worth the price of admission ($65.00), but the
stuff inside is worth twice the price. The distinctive ‘torpedo’
shaped bottle that will only stand up in an ice bucket, the
indigo and gold foil label and the beautiful gift box with the
hand numbered information card are only the tip of the iceberg.
The character of this sparker is on par with Champagnes costing
twice as much. Lemon, Key Lime pie, and coconut in the nose,
with bracing acidity and creamy pear tart in the finish.
Amazingly rare, but mind boggling in value. A gift that will be
talked about for years.
|
|
|
Woodward Canyon Old Vines Cabernet 2004 (Washington) $75
After bashing the ’04 vintage as much as I have, I just love it
when a wine like this comes along and just slaps me across the
face with an ‘I told you so’ sort of attitude. I have been a
huge fan of Rick Small and Woodward Canyon for over 20 years.
How many of you remember the old Cabernet Rose and wheat field
label? I have hosted many tastings with Rick over the years and
even have a magnum set aside for my son’s 21st birthday, but I
have to say that this may be the finest wine yet produced by the
winery. Impeccable balance and polish with deep Mexican
chocolate, espresso and loganberry fruit with perfect acid and
tannins for the cellar. Absolutely stunning stuff. Parker gave
it a ‘94’ and I think that was too low. No, it is not cheap, but
compared to what Napa has to offer at the same price, this is a
‘must by’ for any serious wine aficionado anywhere.
|
|
|
Raucous Columbia Valley Red Non-Vintage (Washington) $8
What? A Washington red blend, from a respected Yakima producer (Tefft),
which is an homage to Vikings? Ufda! From the helmeted Norseman
and sword on the front, to the ditty about the thriving
metropolis of Ballard on the back and the blood red text, this
has instant hit amongst the barbarians written all over it. A
non-vintage blend of Cabernet, Merlot and a dollop of Syrah, it
is as eminently quaffable as can be, and the perfect BBQ red of
summer. It is such a deal that you may want to stock up and use
it in your grog next winter.
|
|
|
Ryan Patrick Naked Chardonnay 2005 (Washington) $10
The last wine was a tribute to the scourge of the North Country
and this one has a nudist Leprechaun on the label. I guess some
countries put fuzzy animals on the front, and Washington has
decided to put hairy European folk heroes on ours. What’s next?
Yeti Yakima Riesling or Astrix Apple wine? I do know this for
sure, this is one fine bottle of Chardonnay, at a decidedly
non-pot-of-gold price of $10. No oak, just pure pineapple, guava
and mango notes, and a crisp, green apple finish. Label be
damned, this one is a winner!
|
|
|
Va Piano Syrah 2005 (Washington) $44
Look out world we have a star in the making! This is the third
release from this micro winery in Walla Walla, and is light
years better than the rest, and they were really, really good! I
like my Syrah to go over-the-top in regards to varietal
character, and that typically means aromas of fresh meat, smoke,
pepper and wet wool. Throw in a sheep, goat and the rest of the
barnyard, and I am in heaven! In other words, I like my Syrah
more on the gamy side and less on the blueberry and Dr. Pepper
side. The 2005 vintage struts all of these goodies in all their
glory here, with lanolin, alder smoke, and clove on the nose.
White pepper, black currant and cedar fill out the mouth, with
tannins and acid for aging. This is an awesome bottle of Syrah
that needs to be in the cellar of any serious Washington wine
geek, or any Syrah lover regardless of appellation. Sadly, only
60 cases came to Western Washington. It is amazing what a little
groveling by a grown man can get you. Obviously, extremely
limited.
|
|
|
Stevens “424” 2004 (Washington) $37
Tim Stevens has gone from relative unknown, to cult winery hero
in just a couple of years. His wines are delicious, have really
cool packaging and sell out almost instantaneously. This latest
version of his baseline Bordeaux blend is a knockout. 45% Cab,
35% Cab Franc and 20% Merlot is the blend, and the Franc really
shines through. Fat and supple, with a nose of espresso, cherry
liqueur and smoke. In the mouth, cocoa, wild strawberry (from
the Franc) and kirsch. Firm tannins add a spine, and gentle
acids finish things off. Stunning right now, but the savvy buyer
will lay a few down for a couple of years.
|
|
|
Rulo Syrca 2005 (Walla Walla) $19
I don’t know how Kurt and Vickie keep doing this, but I am not
going to complain! Last year, the Syrca was leftovers from the
hyper ripe 2003 vintage, combined with the micro production freeze
vintage 2004. This ‘one time only’ wine was a smash success. We
sold over 2500 bottles, all of which was delivered in person all
the way from Walla Walla. We summarily proclaimed it ‘Washington
Wine of the Year’ for 2005, and the rest is history. We never
expected to see another like it. Then, like a sign from the wine
gods comes the perfect 2005 vintage, with likewise perfect fruit
in every corner of the valley. Kurt and Vickie snapped up a little
extra Syrah and Cabernet of stunning complexity, and voila!
another Syrca was born. This one is 57% Cabernet and 43% Syrah,
all from Walla Walla. While not as over the top as the last wine,
this one is more well structured and classier. If the previous
vintage was Mike Tyson, this one is Evander Holyfield, with his
ear intact. Both heavyweights, but stylistically different. Just
don’t call me Don King. Only a tad over 300 cases were produced
this year, so don’t expect this one to be here long.
|
|
|
Rim Rock Merlot 2003 (Washington) $8
I honestly don’t ever remember a Washington wine of this caliber
for this little money before. This is a second label for the
Willow Crest wines of Dave Minick. This massive vineyard in Snipes
Canyon has provided excellent fruit to many Washington wineries
for years, and the Willow Crest wines have been staples here since
their inception. This experiment at rock bottom pricing is a major
hit. This is no hyper complex, new oak laden cellar bomb. This is
a delightful, low oak, fruit driven, drink me now kind of wine
that you could enjoy today with pizza, burgers and pot roast.
Unfortunately, only a few hundred cases of this were produced.
|
|
|
Bunnell Syrah “Horse Heaven” 2004 (Washington) $42
Probably the best debut wine of the season, is arguably one of the
best Syrahs of the season as well. Stunning intensity and
complexity, with smoked bacon fat, lanolin and cassis on the nose,
with white pepper and root beer in the finish. I venture to say
that a marriage of Cote Rotie and Barossa Valley’s finest would be
similar. Keep this winery on your ‘make sure I find some before it
is all sold out and I am hugely disappointed’ list. A rock star in
the making.
|
|
|
Delarche Corton Renards Grand Cru 2005 (France) $76
Holy Burgundy Batman! I forgot how good REAL Burgundy was until I
visited with this gem. Like drinking silk, with elegance, satin
smooth tannins, lovely perfume and a finish that lasts like, well,
a fantasy rather than the real thing. Often Pinot, especially
domestic Pinot resembles a liquid version of stripper. “Damn
that’s impressive! What is it?” A little too much of a good thing.
This one resembles a fairy princess at a waltz. Microscopic
production, but luckily a fair amount made it to Seattle.
|
|
|
Rulo Syrah 2004 (Walla Walla) $23
Fresh out of the blocks, this beautiful wine has all the great
things we have come to expect from Rulo packed into it, without
any of the baggage of the 2004 vintage. Blind, I would have picked
it as a 2002. Black fruit, spice, clove and smoky barrel in the
nose, with restrained and even keel fruit in the mouth. Tannic,
but not overly so. A hint of that cola/root beer note that we
often see in Washington Syrah, and a delicious sweet finish. Kudos
to Kurt on crafting such a killer wine from a crappy vintage. Way
too cheap.
|
|
|
Don Ramon Antique Red 2003 (Spain) $8
The Don Ramon Antique Red 2003 hails from Spain, and one of the
hottest growing seasons on record in Europe. Dominated by
Grenache, this wine is dripping with candied plums, cherry pie and
red currant syrup. Pure and crisp, with light tannins, this wine
is a sure winner. Great with BBQ, red meats and heavier seafood
preparations, it will also pair with Mexican foods and even pizza.
Extremely versatile, and extremely cheap and a really cool looking
bottle.
|
|
|
Reininger Helix Syrah Walla Walla 2003 (Washington) $20
Chuck Reininger has been crafting some of the sleeper wines in
Walla Walla since the 1997 vintage. His Helix label is used to
showcase Columbia Valley fruit, vs. the Reininger label which is
always strictly Walla Walla. He made his mark early on with
Cabernet and Merlot, but as of the last couple of vintages, his
Syrah has taken on a life all its own. This is the first Helix
Syrah we have seen, and damn, look out world. If you like almost
overpowering smoke, spice, pepper and grilled game in your Syrah,
then this animal is for you.
|
|
|
Stephenson Syrah Walla Walla 2003 (Washington) $29
David Stephenson hails from just up the road in Bellingham, but
relocated to Walla Walla several years ago and promptly made his
name as a ‘go to’ guy for making some pretty famous wines for
other wineries. Now, he continues to consult for a few folks, and
makes a microscopic amount if wine under his own label. This is
the third vintage of Syrah from him, and they just keep getting
better and better. Loaded with bacon fat, black pepper and alder
smoke in the nose, and blueberry, cassis and plum in the mouth.
Big and ripe, like most 2003’s, this one also has backbone and
structure for some mid term aging. Worth double what he charges
for it.
|
|
|
Five Star Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla 2003 (Washington) $32
I know I have bashed the 2003 vintage quite a bit, but as I taste
more wines coming from Walla Walla, it appears that they do not
have the overripe issues that have affected other parts of the
state. In reality, 2003 may end up being the new benchmark for
many Walla Walla wineries. Five Star is a perfect example. I have
been raving about these wines since day one (as has some notable
wine press), but as good as those wines were (the 2002 Merlot made
my ‘top ten list’ last year), the 2003’s may be even better. All
three wines, Cab, Merlot and Syrah, are packed with spicy cocoa
and espresso laden fruit, with clean berry notes across the board.
The cab has a decidedly cigar box hint to the back of the palate,
which gives it my nod as the favorite this year, but it is sort of
like picking a Ferrari based on the color. You couldn’t go wrong
with any of them.
|
|
|
Ragged Ridge Merlot 2000 (California) $6
A good California Merlot for $6? Where did this come from? Fat,
jammy and loaded with raspberry, cherry and strawberry, with a
hint of milk chocolate. This wine is such a bargain, that I urge
you to rent a U-Haul, and fill it up. Deals like this don’t come
along very often. Run, speed and push people out of the way. Don’t
wait on this one, as quantities are limited.
|
|
|
Memo Montepulciano 2003 (Italy) $10
With the rash of mediocre 2002 Northern Italian table wines
thankfully falling behind us, we are starting to see the plush and
super ripe 2003’s start to dock. The new Memo Montepulciano
D’Abruzzo is simply fantastic juice for $9.99. Big and fat, with
just enough of that Italian country roughness to remind you of its
heritage. Loads of spice and black fruit make this a great starter
wine for those Shiraz drinkers out there who have always thought
of Italian wines as too thin and acidic. I like to call this an ‘Italo-Aussie’.
|
|
|
Barrister Cabernet Franc 2003 (Washington) $25
From Spokane, wine Mecca of the ‘Inland Empire’, comes this
surprise. I recently judged the Northwest Wine Summit at
Timberline Lodge in Oregon. Sixteen of us judges sniffed and
slurped through over 900 wines in three days, to find out what
Washington, Oregon, Idaho and British Columbia have been up to
over the last couple of years. After all of the dust had settled,
a 2003 Washington Cabernet Franc stood alone atop the podium with
top honors. When the winery name was revealed, I was very shocked
to see that it was from a Washington winery that I had little
experience with, Barrister. Ripe strawberry and raspberry waft
from the nose and in the background is a hint of toast. Medium
bodied, and lively, this is a classic example of why I have become
such a fan of Washington Cab Franc. Great wine, and extremely
limited.
|
|
|
Rulo Syrca Non-Vintage (Washington) $15
Normally my bargain picks are well under $10, but sometimes, the
term ‘bargain’ becomes relative to what else is in the
marketplace, not what is in our wallets. The new Rulo ‘Syrca’ is
such a wine. A blend of 2003 Syrah (think inky blaster from
Australia), and 2004 Cabernet (think, ‘damn, not enough juice this
year to make a wine on its own’), this wine has mind boggling
depth and complexity for the petty sum of $14.99. Now I know,
$14.99 is about twice the price of what I usually push as a
bargain, but this beauty will knock the socks off of many a wine
costing twice this price. Big, smoky and gamey on the nose, with
opaque color and a nearly molasses like mouthfeel with waves of
black currant, coffee and dark chocolate. Truly awesome wine for
the money! Maybe the best wine I have ever had for $15.00, and you
can quote me on that!
|
|
|
Harlequin Chardonnay Celilo Vineyard 2003 (Washington) $23
Chardonnay is making a comeback, and with examples enlightening as
this one, it is easy to see why. The tropical profile of the
famous Celilo fruit is dominant here, but it is tempered by a
flinty note reminiscent of Chablis. Add to this a smattering of
French oak, and you come up with a delicious, food friendly Chard
that reminds us of how good this style of wine can really be.
|
|
|
Fidelitas Cabernet Sauvignon “Champoux Vineyard” 2002
(Washington) $55
Charlie Hoppes is well known in the wine world as a grand master
with grapes. However, most don’t know about this wine…yet. Tiny
production, gold leaf on the bottle, and simply stunning wine. We
tasted it along side some of the well known, big name reds from
Washington, and this one blew them away (and the others were GREAT
wines). Big, yet elegant, ripe, yet balanced, this is one of the
top Washington Cabernets I have had in a long time. Unfortunately,
the production was extremely small. Absolutely stellar wine, even
at $55. Destined to be looked upon as one of Washington’s classic
wines.
|
|
|
Maryhill Fort Rock Red 2002 (Washington) $11
What are they putting in the water down in the Gorge? This is yet
another absolutely delicious wine coming from those upstarts in
the wine metropolis of Maryhill. Big, fat fruit, zippy acid, a
whiff of smoke and layer upon layer of cherry, raspberry and
cocoa. How on earth do they pack all of this into a Washington
wine for $11? Maybe being down river from a nuke facility has its
benefits. Stunning value here!
|
|
|
ded. reckoning No.1 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2002
(Washington) $25
Produced by Winemaker Paul Golitzin this 98%, Cabernet Sauvignon,
2% Cabernet Franc was made from 8 Barrels of free run Sheridan
Cabernet that were aged in new French oak for approximately 18
months, then blended with 5 barrels of Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2%
Cabernet Franc from a combination of Klipsun, Taptiel, Ciel du
Cheval, and Champoux Vineyards. Massive in structure, with
undertones of blackberry, espresso and dark chocolate, this is a
prime choice for the cellar. This is one bad mother that will age
for eons.
|
|
|
Viu Manent Chardonnay 2004 (Chile) $8
Chile has a reputation for producing great wine values, but often
the wines come across as a little rough around the edges. Not so
with the new offerings from Viu Manent. A new Australian
winemaker, and a new philosophy, is driving the cart now, so look
out! The new lineup is loaded with ripe fruit, and solid
structure, and is still packing a great price. The Chardonnay is
ripe, full bodied and very toasty. I don’t know how they got the
toast into a $8 bottle in such a short period of time, but who
cares? This may become the value Chardonnay for us for a long time
to come. Great stuff!
|
|
|
Carpenter Creek Green Apple Riesling 2003 (Washington) $10
From tiny Carpenter Creek, in the suburbs of Mt Vernon, comes the
most dazzling Riesling I have tasted in a long time. No, it does
not have apples in it (I asked the same question), but it does
have that snappy crisp and tart nature of a Granny Smith. It is a
shame more people don’t drink Riesling, but I guess that just
leaves more for us!
|
|
|
Crimson Glory (Washington) $10
Show your true holiday colors this season with this limited run of
Pasek Cranberry wine with the striking ‘Crimson Glory’ label! For
all you Coug fans out there, stock up before the big game, and for
all of you who could care less, stock up for all of those holiday
buffets. The snappy cranberry flavors, and bright, festive color
pair beautifully with all sorts of seasonal fare, be it turkey,
ham or husky (only kidding).
|
|
|
Bow Wow Lembarker (Washington)
Finally, the mutt wine all of you have been asking about is here,
and it isn’t even a mutt. 100% Yakima Lemberger is the cuvee in
this refreshing and lively red. Produced by Mt Baker Vineyards it
sells for $12.99, and Compass Wines is are donating $10.00 for
each case sold to Summit Assistance Dogs, for all the work they do
training assistance dogs for people with handicaps. It is a great
organization, so check them out at
www.summitdogs.org.
|
|
|
Hurricane Ridge Cabernet Franc 2002 (Washington) $20
I have dubbed this wine Cab Frankenstein for its massive, brutish
style yet slightly clumsy and likeable way. Blind, it smells like
vintage port, in the glass, it looks like vintage port, and in the
glass, it drinks like, well, a dry vintage port. This is one
seriously inky monster, done in the inevitable Andrake style, but
this dude is on steroids. As anti-French a franc I have ever seen.
For those who think Cab Franc is a thin impersonation of Cabernet
Sauvignon, think again. Think purple tapioca with tannins. Pretty
cool stuff.
|
|
|
Maryhill Reserve Zinfandel 2002 (Washington) $32
Last year, I dubbed the 2001 Maryhill Zinfandel MOAZ (mother of
all zins). The 2002 Reserve version is nearly dessert level sweet,
much like the old school late harvest zins coming out of Napa in
the 1970s, and nearly opaque. I call this wine ‘Godzinna’ Huge,
full of power (no, it doesn’t come from an island that was used
for nuke testing, but it is down river from Hanford), able to bowl
you over with its intensity and extremely likable. Sort of like
drinking blackberry pie, with a dusting of tannin and pepper for
good measure. Killer juice.
|
|
|
Andrake Sangiovese 2002 (Washington) $35
Bob Andrake just keeps turning out monster wine after monster
wine. For those who think Sangiovese is for weenies, think again.
This brut has chunks of Super Tuscan in its sediment. As always,
all free run juice that is as inky a Sangiovese as I have ever
seen. Only 60+ cases produced, so it is a rare as it is delicious.
|
|
|
Dunham Frenchtown Vineyard Syrah 2002 (Washington) $70
Eric Dunham is quickly establishing himself as one of the top
Syrah producers in the state. His new ‘Frenchtown Vineyard’
bottling off of the family estate in Lowden is but another feather
in his cap. Gobs and Gobs of black fruit, with a gamy (read bloody
meat) streak dancing through the middle. Yum. Only 200 cases were
produced, with only tiny amounts coming to Western Washington.
|
|
|
Apollonio Salice Salentino 2000 (Italy) $14
As a retailer, we get bombarded with samples of inexpensive reds
from around the world, so it is with great pleasure that I pull
this surprise out of the hat. The 2000 Apollonio Salice Salentino
is downright dazzling! Cloves, allspice, cinnamon, and dried
ginger jump out of the glass, and dark cherry with chocolate sauce
dominate in the mouth. Wow! The best Italian wine I have had all
year (and that includes some really famous ones). You can quote me
on that.
|
|
|
Cline Red Truck 2002 (California) $10
Wow! One more massive fruit bomb from California at a great price!
The 2002 Red Truck (from Cline Vineyards) is a classic ‘mutt’ wine
loaded with all kinds of Rhone and Rhone-like varietals. Packed
with gobs of spicy fruit, plum like ripeness, and deep dark color.
Big and fat, and only $9.99…Add a clever label, and this one is
going to move out in a hurry.
|
|
|
Mt. Baker Vineyards “Big Red” Cabernet Sauvignon 1999
(Washington) $7
Randy Finley at Mt Baker Vineyards has really hit the mark with
some new pricing strategy. His newly labeled, $6.99 ‘Big Red’ 1999
Cabernet (we call this label the ‘Janet halftime show’) is the
best value cab from Washington, period. He only put up a few
hundred cases, so act quickly. Ripe and lush, with a little bit of
European style earthiness. Call it baby Bordeaux from the left
bank of the Nooksack.
|
|
|
Andrake Syrah 2001 (Washington) $28
I am calling this wine ‘The Black Sabbath of Syrah’. If you
like your Syrah to resemble a Celine Dion disk, then don’t touch
this bad boy. As dark and brooding as any wine I have ever had.
Wild soy and oriental spice component ads to the mix. Not for the
faint of heart, but damn, if this one is the one that stops your
ticker, what a way to go!
|
|
|
Basel Cellars Merriment 2001 (Washington) $50
We finally have the much anticipated flagship wine from the
new wonder-kid winemaker Trey Busch. If you don’t want to buy a
membership at the winery, this is one tough wine to find. Classic
Bordeaux blend, with leather, herb and cedar running through it.
Maybe the most impressive debut wine we have ever tasted.
Extremely limited (less than 15 cases released for retail sale).
At $49.99 it is destined to become one of the new cult classics
from Washington. |
|
|
Crow Canyon 2001's (California) $7
Where on earth did these guys come from? An entire lineup of
California wines that are not only very tasty, but also very
cheap. This is doubly amazing, as this is the first time I have
ever tasted a line up of inexpensive wines that didn’t include at
least one stinker. They presented us with Chardonnay, Merlot,
Syrah and Cabernet, and we bought all four! This is a first for
us. All of the wines are staggering values at $6.99, so I am
breaking the rules and highlighting all four. Back up the Range
Rover and start loading.
|
|
|
Challenger Ridge Red Table Wine 2002 (Washington) $6
From the most unlikely spots, come some of the biggest surprises.
From upriver in Concrete (yes you read that correctly) comes
Western Washington’s newest winery. Value is a relative term, but
when the most expensive wine in the portfolio is under 20 bucks,
it is unanimous. Fruit driven, with the oak way down on the list,
these wines are a breath of fresh air. The ‘Red Table Wine’ (Syrah
and Cabernet) at $5.99 is a mind blowing bargain. No, it’s not
Bordeaux, but if gobs of blackberry and spice are your thing, then
this one’s for you. I’d have to say this is the best ‘Tar heel’
wine value I have ever seen!
|
|
|
Basel Cellars Merriment 2001 (Washington) $50
Finally, the flagship from this fledgling Walla Walla winery has
arrived! Damn, what a wine it is! Elegant, refined and very
classy, this is not your fathers Washington fruit bomb. Spice,
leather, balance and grace are how this wine needs to be
described. Well worth the wait and the 50 bucks to procure. Teeny
tiny amounts allocated outside the winery, so start the search
now. It will not be around long.
|
|
|
Stephenson Cellars Syrah 2001 (Washington) $27
This is another tiny Walla Walla producer, who has just released
his first wine. Only 140 cases of this jewel of a Syrah were made,
and at $26.99, it is a knockout bargain. Lots of the fat,
blueberry fruit that Washington Syrah is becoming known for (lots
of this fruit is from the up and coming ‘Willow Crest Vineyard’),
but it also has a streak of gamey, bloody wild animal running
through it. This guy was the hands on winemaker for many of the
famous Walla Walla wines produced on contract at Waterbrook, and
he obviously picked up a thing or two. Get on early with this one.
Great stuff!
|
|
|
Vega Rioja Tinto 2002 (Spain) $10
For pure autumn drinking pleasure, one needs to look no farther
than Tempranillo. The Vega Rioja Tinto 2002 (no, it’s not a ‘70’s
chevy with dark windows) is a killer deal at under $10.00. Much
brighter fruit than one is used to from Spain, but it still has
that lean, and mean edge that pairs so well with food. Try this
with a slab of fall Chinook hot off the BBQ for a new taste treat.
|
|
|
Budget Buster Pick
Kaesler Shiraz Old Vine 2001 (Australia) $45
We seem to see more and more mind blowing wines coming from
Australia as of late. Check out the massive Kaesler Old Vine
Shiraz 2001 for a true inky-blaster experience. Not quite as old
of vines as the ‘Old Bastard’ (these are only on the 50yr old
range), but also about half the price at around $45.00. Huge black
fruit, loads of spice and pepper, and a smack of that Aussie
menthol make for a bloody good drink. Not for the weak of heart.
|
|
|
Yellow Hawk Dry Muscat Canelli 2002 (Washington) $13
Those of you old enough to remember the Muscat Canelli from the
old Mercer Ranch Vineyard in the early ‘80’s will want to take
notes here. This is the same fruit, but it comes from the re-named
Champoux Vineyard. That same intense floral note in the nose, but
this one is dry, with layers of papaya, pineapple and mango. Not
bone dry, but dry in the VT Alsatian sense. A plate of icy cold
oysters is calling for this one. One of the true hidden gems in
the state.
|
|
|
Domaine Des Cassagnoles Cotes De Gascogne 2002 (France) $8
With all the hype surrounding red Bordeaux lately, don’t forget
the whites. The 2002 Domaine Des Cassagnoles Cotes De Gascogne is
an absolutely stunning value. Bright lemon and lime, with a dash
of jasmine in the nose. Killer with shellfish or cracked crab. At
under 8 bucks, it’s a real no-brainer. |
|
|
Maryhill Zinfandel 2001 (Washington) $28
Look out California Zins, the ‘MOAZ’ (mother of all Zin…OK I made
that up), is coming! The 2000 Zinfandel from Maryhill was all the
rage last year, and the 2001 for this summer is 10 times the wine.
Massive 15.5% alcohol brings back memories of those nearly
port-like Zins from the past. Tar, blackberry and cracked pepper
fill out this monster from the gorge. At under 30 dollars, it
won’t last long.
|
|
|
Whidbey Island Cabernet Franc 2001 (Washington) $19
Known mostly for those bright and zippy whites produced from
western Washington fruit, the Whidbey Island reds should not be
ignored. At under $20.00, this Cabernet Franc has all the fruit,
balance and bright cherry you would expect in a wine at twice the
price. Very limited production, but worth searching out.
|
|
|
Dudley Partners Porky Flat Kangaroo Island Shiraz 2000
(Australia) $14
With a name like that, it has to be good. Oink, Mate, this wine is
a winner. Slightly leaner and meatier than your typical Aussie,
this comes across like a pumped up Rhone. Bacon, leather and spice
added to classic fruit bomb tendencies from the wines down under,
make for a rock star for the BBQ, at lounge lizard pricing.
|
|
|
San Donaci Contrada Del Falco Vino Nobile del Salentino 1999
(Italy) $14
Another great wine, with a tongue twister for a name. I know
nothing about this producer, but with wine this good, who cares? A
blend of Negromaro, Malvasia and Primativo gives a sort of zinny
mouth, with really bright raspberry overtones. It’s the nose,
however, that is the calling card. Graphite, cedar and cigar box
gives the impression of a much spendier bottle of juice. Wow!
|
|
|
De Bortoli Deen Chardonnay Vat 7 2001 (Australia) $8
My pick for ‘value of the month’ is the weirdest package for
Chardonnay I have ever seen. The 2001 De Bortoli Deen Vat 7
Chardonnay for Australia is in a really odd bottle that looks like
it should house fake veggies in mystery liquid ala 1975. Top this
off with an orange label, and you get my ‘What were the marketing
guys thinking’ award. Forget the outside, because the snappy
little wine inside is definitely worth a second look. Bright
tropical fruit, with a kiss of buttery oak makes for a damn fine
quaff, especially for about 8 bucks a pop. Looks can be deceiving.
|
|
|
Behrens and Hitchcock Barcini Vineyard Petite Sirah 2000
(California) $60
Behrens and Hitchcock has made waves in the cult wine underground
for several vintages now, primarily for big and bold Cab and
Merlot. The 2000 Barcini Vineyard Petite Sirah will not disappoint
those Bordeaux varietal snobs. I like to call wines like this
‘Inky Blasters’, for obvious reasons. Black, smoky, gobs of super
ripe fruit, and a dose of anise and white pepper make for a very
bold glass of wine. Bravo for returning California wines to their
roots.
|
|
|
Pasek Cranberry (Washington) $10
Has anyone not had this wine yet? Very bright garnet color, simple
packaging, and a refreshing new flavor profile make this a real
charmer. Although it cries out for a turkey sandwich, it is great
by itself, or as a spritzer. The new wave in wine? Read Ocean
Spray with a kick.
|
|
|
Five Star Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 (Washington) $32
One of the great stories to come from Walla Walla in recent
memory: take one John Deere sales and repair man, and mix in two
parts thankful vineyard owners, and you come up with a really nice
guy making really nice wine with grapes from two really nice
vineyards. Only 100 cases produced, but all Pepperbridge and Seven
Hills fruit makes it well worth the search. I can’t wait to see
what pops up for 2001!
|
|
|
Mt Baker Vineyards Reserve Chardonnay 2000 (Washington) $20
Randy Finley of Mt Baker has been watching over the often-ignored
Mt Baker for nearly two decades now. Yes the myriad of wines
produced can be confusing, as can the many different labels, but
this gem is worth sourcing. Elegant style, ripe fruit, and just
enough oak make me cry out for more. Not over oaked like many
‘Reserve’ wines, this one is just right. 430 cases produced. (this
one has the ‘snow and barn’ label)
|
|
|
Romano Dogliotti La Caudrina Moscato d’Asti 2001 (Italy) $12
If liquid peaches and apricots could be bottled as wine, this
would be it. Enough said.
|
|
|
Owen-Sullivan Red Table Wine 2000 (Washington) $16
Another winner from the boys in Tukwila, and my value pick of the
month. A no nonsense blend of Bordeauxish varieties, with a dollop
of Syrah thrown in just for fun. Soft tannins, and buckets of
fruit make for a great alternative to the Aussie wines we all know
and love.
|
|
|
Painter Bridge Zinfandel-Shiraz 2001 (California) $7
Where the hell did these guys come from? This, and the companion
Chardonnay, is spin offs of the J. Lohr group, but damn, these
wines sure don’t taste like it! This wine has gobs of fruit, nice
Syrah waxiness, and lots of Zin bramble. A serious quaffer to
stash by the case!
|
|
|
Painter Bridge Chardonnay 2001 (California) $7
See above, but swap in pineapple, coconut and buttered popcorn on
the nose. Wow!
|
|
|
Buffalo Ridge Syrah 1999 (California) $7
A closeout of unknown origin. Probably produced by some massive
conglomerate, but who cares. Big bang for the buck. Lots of black
fruit, not a lot of Syrah character, but a serious best buy for
pure drinking pleasure.
|
|
|
Francis Coppola Sofia Blanc de Blanc 2001 (California) $22
Produced by the folks who bring you all those reds and whites with
monochromatic labels, this charming bubbly has Valentines written
all over it. Nice clear glass presentation with a fancy pink
cellophane wrap (ala Cristal). A kiss of Muscat in the blend makes
it hard not to like. Pair it with fruit leather for a real treat.
|
|
|
Rulo Vanessa Chardonnay 2001 (Washington) $25
Dynamite stuff here! These Walla Walla upstarts are producing some
of the most dynamic and fun to drink whites in the state. Downplay
the oak, pump up the fruit (I think I might have said this last
time about the Viognier) and throw it in our glasses. Limited
distribution, but worth the search.
|
|
|
Viader ‘V’ 2000 (California) $110
OK, I had to throw in a big buck Californian as well as the cheap
stuff. Affectionately known as ‘Darth Viader’, this Petite Verdot
driven wine from the dark side is just a killer bottle of wine,
period. Get out your light saber (you’ll need it to cut through
it) and hunt it down. With only about 100 cases for the world, you
might need to use the force, but it will be well worth the quest.
|
|
|
Sheridan Red Wine 2000 (Washington) $35
This is Washington’s Skywalker wine to fill the void when the
sinister one above eludes you. Inky black blend of Cab, Merlot,
and Franc is a knockout. Classy packaging, masses of dark fruit,
and the classic pie cherry acidity that makes Washington wines so
good, and makes that unnamed reviewer from back east look like
such a dork. This is what should be written next to the word
‘meritage’ in the dictionary. Bravo Scott Greer!
|
|
|
1998 Whidbey Island ‘Anacortes Art Festival’ Cabernet
(Washington) $15
Very limited production (100 cases), silky smooth and very
Bordeaux like. Unfiltered, 93% Cab, 7% Merlot, in a classy
shouldered bottle, wax finished with a stunning label by Anne
Martin-McCool.
Has gift material written all over it.
|
|
|
2000 Owen-Sullivan ‘The Last Syrah’ (Washington) $20
Killer, Aussie style fruit bomb. Gobs of blueberry and cola in the
nose, with just enough tannin to fill it out. Best value in
Washington Syrah out there, but sadly, only 115 cases produced,
and its going fast.
|
|
|
2000 Bunchgrass ‘Founders Red’ (Washington) $25
Talk about value! Roger Cockerline, and his dog T-Rex, only
produce about 350 cases total per year, but what a wine it is. As
a former grower for the big L (Leonetti), his Cab Franc and Merlot
used to go into some of the most famous wines ever produced in
Walla Walla. Now they are all his. They are fused with a little
Cab to make the textbook version of Walla Walla elegance. Never
brutal, always balanced, and an amazing price. No tannin bomb
here, just a velvet glove to smack you around if you don’t look
this one up.
|
|
|
1998 Quilceda Creek Cabernet (Washington) $95 (if you can find
it)
Alex and Paul Golitzin's 1999 got all the recent hype (Parker
97-98 out of barrel), but this may be an even better wine (Parker
only gave this a 95). Just called ‘the best Cabernet in America’
by Food and Wine in the October 2002 issue. Massive central valley
fruit, with the majority coming from the celebrated ‘Champoux
Vineyard’, this is one of the true classics to ever come out of
Washington.
|
|
|
2001 Rulo Viognier (Washington) $19
Tropical fruit explodes out of this new Walla Walla offering.
Bananas, papaya, mango, pineapple, you name it, its in there. This
was the WOW wine of my most recent trip to the South East corner.
The Chardonnays are pretty stellar too, but this gem is a must
buy!
|
|
|
2000 Willow Crest Pinot Gris (Washington) $6
This is a real no-brainer. Pear, apple, melon and a little spice.
Bring on the oysters and crab. Look out Oregon, Washington is
really stepping up the quality on Pinot Gris, and keeping the
price in check.
|
|
|
1997 Glen Fiona ‘Basket Press Reserve’ Syrah (Washington) $85
The best Syrah ever made in Washington? This ultra rare (less than
100 cases produced) beauty is all that you could ever ask from a
Rhone varietal. Wild yeast fermented, hand beeswaxed top, gold (vs
black) label really sets this apart from all other offerings from
Mr. Figgins. If you have only had his Bacchus or Walla Walla
bottlings, you have never really tasted what Rusty’s wines are all
about. The 1998 and 1999 versions are mighty tasty as well ( the
1999 was the #2 Syrah in the country according to Wine and Spirits
with a ‘94’ in the October 2002 issue), and a little less money.
|
|
|
1998 Cayuse ‘Cobblestone’ Syrah (Washington) $55
Mr. Baron has made a quick name for himself in the world of
Washington wine for good reason. His wines are simply spectacular,
and a real pain in the behind to obtain. The next public offering
is for the 2001’s, which wont be released until November 2003, all
via futures. If you’re not already on the list for his 2000’s,
good luck. While waiting for the next year, try one of his past
bottles to see what all the fuss is about. Very French, with loads
of terrior, and classic Walla Walla elegance. Don’t overlook the
Viognier either. Gobs of fruit, great depth, and a remarkable
finsh, and even scarcer than his reds.
|
|
|
1999 Dunham Shirley Mays White (Washington) $40
Don’t confuse this with the 2000 version, which is mostly
Semillon, this toasty brute is 95% chard. It is in a slightly
weird bottle for a Chardonnay, and it is unfiltered for that hazy
day in November look, but this is one of the hidden gem Washington
whites floating around out there. Mouth filling, just enough oak,
and fat buttery profile. Not a wine for those afraid of big
bodies. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
WineSquire
Links |
|
|
Check
out the sites that have received the WineSquire 'Seal of Approval
.' |
|
|
|
