African American Wine Maker Finds Soul in Napa

At the recent 2007 Telluride Wine Festival, I had the pleasure of meeting a new, up and coming, winemaker - Jonathan Branch of Branch Cellars. Mr. Branch’s wines are just as big and powerful as his charismatic personality and ever present smile.

From oil industry project engineer to wine maker, Jonathan Branch is an African American man with an intriguing story. As you might imagine black wine makers are rare, and Jonathan Branch and his wines invite and welcome wine enthusiasts and other pioneering African American wine makers to journey into new uncharted territory. Growing up in Houston’s fifth ward was not a trip to Disneyland, however this experience laid down a foundation of personal determination and passion which eventually propelled Jonathan into living his dream of today becoming a praiseworthy wine maker.

After college Jonathan Branch went to work for British Petroleum as an engineer. This experience allowed Jonathan to travel the world, experiencing the great food and wine from all of the countries he visited. His worldly travel experiences combined with his earliest childhood memories of neighbors picking figs, tomatoes, pears, apples, and then creating preserves, sauces and pies further developed his interest in gourmet foods. His passionate approach to food compelled Jonathan eventually to leave British Petroleum in pursuit of his then goal of becoming an accomplished chef. He enrolled in UCLA’s culinary arts program and eventually graduated a full fledged chef.

With a family to support, and money worries looming ever present, Jonathan was forced by necessity to give up his dream chef position, and he returned to BP and his former position as a project engineer. Never losing touch with his palate or his appreciation for outstanding food, Jonathan recounts a life changing wine experience while traveling, years later, on business for BP in France and drinking a Zind Humbrecht (Alsatian) Pinot Gris. It was that pivotal wine experience that brought all of his culinary memories back in sealing for him what was to be his destined path as a cutting edge wine maker. By then Jonathan had invested wisely, money was no longer a concern, and he was drawn by his new passion – wine making.

Jonathan enrolled in Cal Poly San Luis Obispo’s viticulture program, and was three years into the program before he withdrew from the Bachelor of Arts program. While at Cal Poly S.L.O. Jonathan learned the basics about wine making, and he eventually went to work as a “cellar rat” (assistant wine maker) for both Dain Wines and the A Donkey and Goat Winery after meeting the owners at Crush Pad Inc. in San Francisco.

Today Jonathan is semi-retired, “working only fifty hours a week” he says with a smile. He has been making his own wines under the Branch Cellars name for three years now. He sources his grapes from both the Stevens Vineyard and Shikon Vineyards within the Napa Valley. Never one to compromise his belief systems or sell out to the mass marketers, Jonathan has remained true to his independent vision with his first release, the 2005 Branch Cellars “Animae” (Napa) Cabernet Sauvignon.

Tasting note:
Branch 2005 Animae (Napa Valley) Cabernet Sauvignon.
A blend of 95% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot this desirous red wine truly has soul (Animae). Aromas of blueberry, cocoa, and tobacco are featured prominently on the nose. The palate delivers mouth watering, fruit forward, flavors of black cherry, cocoa and subtle mineral notes that compliment this red’s soft tannins. Drink now or hold – Tom DiNardo.

Animae is the Latin word for soul, and Jonathan Branch has plenty. His first release of the 2005 vintage consisted of only one hundred cases in production. Sure he is considered to be a “boutique wine maker” by many, but he definitely has plans for future growth. “Remember Kent Rosenblum of Rosenblum Cellars started out the same way”, he reminds us. The 2006 vintage will consist of 200 cases in production, and the 2007 vintage is scheduled to number three hundred cases states Branch. In addition to his terrific 2005 “Animae” Cabernet Sauvignon, readers will no doubt welcome the release of the Branch Cellars 2005 Beatty Ranch Vineyard (Howell Mountain) Zinfandel, the 2005 Wentzell Vineyard (Napa) Pinot Noir, and the future 2006 future release of the “Animae” Cabernet Sauvignon.

For more information about Jonathan and his wines visit:
www.branchcellars.com.

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Tom DiNardo, “The Wine Pragmatist,” is a freelance wine writer for Wine Enthusiast, Santé, and Wine Adventure magazines and a regular contributor to WineSquire.com. Tom is also a renowned charity wine auctioneer, sommelier, wine educator, and certified master appraiser. © 2007 Tom DiNardo. All Rights Reserved.
Email Tom: info@DiNardoandLordAuctioneers.com.

Tom DiNardo is a Contributor to WineSquire.com