By Tom Allan

A lucky group of scotch drinkers were treated to a fantastic tasting experience on April 15th at the Hotel Monaco in Seattle. While many were at home desperately finishing their tax returns, we were learning the story of The Macallan from Brand Ambassador Caspar MacRae. The event was sponsored by the University of Washington Alumni Association's Young Alumni group (thankfully, being young was not a requirement for entry).

Mr. MacRae, a former royal guard in the British army, is a delightful storyteller and kept the participants entertained while teaching them about the malt and the distillery. Located 40 miles east of Inverness in Craigellachie, The Macallan Distillery was founded in 1824 shortly after distilling was again legalized after a long dry period. Curiously, they say the distillery was able to produce a 10 year-old whisky as early as 1825. They are known for some unique and distinctive practices in the crafting of their malts:

The Macallan is aged in casks crafted in Spain from European Oak trees. The trees grow in the mountains of Northern Spain and are between 100 and 150 years old. They are careful to note that the trees are selectively felled and the forest is self-sustaining. The planks cut from the trees are air dried for two years before being shaped into staves and formed into casks in Cadiz. The casks are seasoned in a two-step process. They are first used to ferment must into sherry for three months. They are then drained and filled with maturing sherry for three years. Only then are they shipped to Scotland for use in aging whisky.

The distillery still uses Golden Promise barley as the core of their malt bill. Most other distilleries have abandoned the variety in favor of higher yield alternatives.

The whisky is distilled in relatively small pots, twice.

The careful attention to tradition and detail by Whisky Maker Bob Dalgarno results in a masterful bottle of single malt whisky. Which brings me to the most important part of the evening: What did we taste?

12 Years Old 86 Proof
The flagship brand for The Macallan in America, the 12 year, shows all the distinctive characteristics of the distillery. This was noticeably darker in color than a comparative Speyside malt from another producer that was included in the tasting. Note in the spider diagram (provided by The Macallan website) the nearly equal balance between spicy, toffee, citrus, floral, and dried fruit flavors. The citrus comes through as distinctly orange in character, with noticeable sherry and raisin flavors. The barley is primarily air-dried, hence the absence of a significant peat presence.

Washington Retail Price: $44.95 per 750ml

Cask Strength 116.8 Proof
This product is a relative newcomer to the United States, making it's debut in 2002. Fans of cask strength malts will love the spicy nose and woody flavors. The flavor profile is bigger on nearly all points with the exception of floral flavors. You'll find more malt, wood, spice and dried fruit here. 12 year old Macallan is the primary component of the bottle, with 10 or 14 year barrels blended in to achieve the desired strength. This is why you won't find an age statement on the label.

Washington Retail Price: $52.40 per 750ml

1861 Replica 85.4 Proof
From The Macallan website:

In 1998 The Macallan acquired a very rare bottle of 1861 from a private collection, and presented Bob Dalgarno, Whisky Maker, with the formidable challenge of replicating it.

Bob and his team then had the terrible job of tasting scores of samples from aging casks in Craigellachie and comparing the flavor profiles to the 1861 bottle. In the end, they blended 28 casks together and achieved what they believe to be an authentic replica. The result is a malt surprisingly lighter in color than the modern 12 year, but sharing the same citrus, dried fruit, and spice characters. Definitely more wood and smoke, with less emphasis on toffee.

The bottle itself is a work of art. It is a replica of the hand blown bottles used in the 19th century, complete with air bubbles and randomly created irregularities. No two bottles are the same.

Washington Retail Price: $179.95 per 750ml (Special Order)

1841 Replica 83.4 Proof
The story here is the same as for the 1861. The 1841 bottle that was found is also unique in that it is the oldest surviving glass bottle of The Macallan. During the early-mid 1800s, most whisky was sold in stoneware jars 10 times larger than this free-blown glass bottle. The shift to glass began after the glass tax was repealed in 1845. A whisky properly stored in a glass vessel does not change (much) over time, so it is likely this sample tasted much as it did 150+ years ago. With that in mind, Bob Dalgarno created a malt pale gold in color with an orangy citrus nose and a complex palate of wood, fruit, peat and spice. The peat in particular is more pronounced than you might expect from a bottle of The Macallan. The long fruity finish is a surprise coming from a bottle that looks this old.

Washington Retail Price: $199.95 per 750ml (Special Order)

Kudos to Bob Dalgarno and The Macallan Distillery for spending the time and money to share a little piece of whisky history with the 21st century consumer. Thanks also to Caspar MacRae and the University of Washington Alumni Association for a delightful event!

More info at www.themacallan.com or +44 (0) 1340 871471
Tom Allan is a Contributing Advisor for WineSquire.com