by Bob Woehler

Yellow Hawk Cellar is a Walla Walla winery with a difference.

First, most of the wines are priced in the $20 and under range. And second, Yellow Hawk focuses on such Mediterranean grapes as Muscat Canelli, Sangiovese and Barbera, plus a Port-style wine.

The winery is in a century-old barn out near the Washington-Oregon state line, and the tasting room is a few blocks from downtown Walla Walla.

It all began when Tim Sampson saw an ad in the La Grande (Ore.) newspaper saying "Oenophiles Wanted."

It was an invitation to join other like-minded folks and see what all this talk was about Northwest wine. Also in the group was Barbara Hetrick. Their association over wine eventually led to marriage.

The couple's relocation to Walla Walla opened the door for Tim to pursue a career in wine, working the harvest with Canoe Ridge Vineyard in Walla Walla and then serving as cellarmaster for Seven Hills Winery.

The result is Yellow Hawk, where the only wine in the tasting room more than $20 is a $26 nonvintage Port-style called Opportunity.

2007 Muscat Canelli, Columbia Valley, $12 -- Impressive effort for a difficult variety. Wonderful tropical aromas and flavors of dried mango slivers and tangerine and made nicely dry. Try it with Indian curry dishes.

2006 Sangiovese, Walla Walla Valley, $15 -- Expressive earth and chocolate aromas with blackberry and black licorice flavors. Perfect with pizza.

2007 Kick-Ass Red, Columbia Valley, $16 -- A tasty blend of Sangiovese, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon that begins with some nice leather aromas and ends with juicy cranberry flavors. Try it with chicken cacciatore.

2005 Solstice, Columbia Valley, $10 -- A rich blend of Sangiovese, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon offers both toasty oak aromas and big, juicy plum and mocha flavors. Pair with thin-sliced roast beef.

2006 Barbera, Columbia Valley, $20 -- Reminds me of rocky road fudge with blueberries on the side and a hint of walnuts. How about some moussaka with eggplant and ground beef?

2007 Red Barn red, Columbia Valley, $12 -- Light and easy blend of four red grapes, mostly Barbera and Sangiovese, with a dollop each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. Light, smooth and easy to drink with cherry and cranberry overtones. Match with homemade baked beans and bacon.

2008 Orange Muscat, Columbia Valley, $13 -- A dessert wine with honeysuckle aromas and ripe pear and orange flavors. Good with any kind of cake that's not chocolate.