Squire Cellar Picks for May 2008
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Livio Felluga Pinot Grigio 2006 (Italy) $28
Livio Felluga Pinot Grigio is certainly one of the best wines in its
category. The grapes come from the 370 acres of rolling hillside vineyards
in the Collio and Colli Orientali del Friuli. The region's temperate
climate, protected by the Alps to the north and moderated by the Adriatic
Sea to the south is a winemaker's dream. The sparse soil of marl and
calcareous deposits is ideal for the white varieties, and also for their
complex red wines. This 100% Pinot Grigio from Collio has a wonderful
presence. The color is golden yellow and the nose is very intense and very
persistent. This wine is elegant and round while offering a complex
minerality and outstanding acidity. The bouquet is rich with notes of
hawthorn flowers, citrus, flint and stone fruit. On the palate the wine is
smooth, fresh, intense and full-bodied. The 2006 vintage is simply
phenomenal. Enjoy this Pinot Grigio with semi-hard cheeses, Risotto with
truffles or other wild mushrooms, white meats or roasted vegetables.
Outstanding. -Marco D'Ambrosio
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Rosenblum Zinfandel “Richard Suaret” 2005 (California) $28
This is single-vineyard Zinfandel from the Paso Robles region in
California. Rich and complex, this is very smooth stuff. It
boasts black and blue fruits, great herb notes of rosemary and a
chocolaty finish. A complex and bold wine that can pair with
pepper steak! –Andrew Campbell
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Laurent Perrier Grand Siecle MV (France) $150
OK, I know what many of you are thinking, “isn’t Champagne only for
weddings, Christmas and hip-hop parties?” Actually, it is arguably the most
versatile of all food wines, and deserves a place at the dinner, lunch and
breakfast table of all serious wine geeks. Last month I had the privilege of
being hosted at Laurent-Perrier for a tour of their facility, including the
6 ˝ mile of caves under the chateau. We then proceeded to a lunch of steak,
fois gras, white fish, veggies, sausage etc. and nothing but Champagne was
served. Bingo, a new favorite lunch wine was discovered! The Grand Siecle is
not a ‘non vintage’, but a ‘multiple vintage” wine meaning that it is a
blend of only those vintages that are of a quality that they could be
declared as a single vintage bottling. Stunning mousse with hints of lemon
rind and talc in the nose, with a mouth filling and explosive flavor of
green apples, dried roses and white peaches. Exquisite stuff, even with bar
nuts (we tried that too). -Doug Charles
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King Estate Pinot Noir 2006 (Oregon) $30
An amazing Pinot Noir in a bright garnet color with a ruby tint. Delicious
cherry, raspberry jam, blueberry and oak spice aromas followed by dark
cherry and raspberry flavors. This medium body beauty has a really smooth,
soft finish. -Nick Tomassi
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Kendall-Jackson Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 (California) $26
Varietals: 93% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Merlot. It has a dark cherry red
color, blackberry, blueberry and cassis aromas and flavors with hints of
smoke, mocha and vanilla oak. A full-bodied, delicious cab with a long,
earthy finish. -Nick Tomassi
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Bertani Amarone Classico 1999 (Italy) $115
Bertani is one of Italy's most prestigious wineries and their Amarone
Classico is certainly one of the most traditional Amarone in the market. The
winery has been founded in 1857 and celebrated its 150th anniversary in
2007. This 1999 Amarone Classico is produced with the best estate grown
grapes sourced from the vineyards in Fumane, Marano and Novare valley. The
soil is marly-calcareous. The blend is 70% Corvina Veronese, 25% Rondinella
and 5% Molinara grapes. After harvest, the grapes are dried for 120 days on
cane mats and become affected by Botrytis Cinerea (Noble Rot). Maceration
lasts up to 60 days. The wine is then aged in large Slavonian oak barrels
for 6 years and 1 year in bottle prior to release. This wine has a very deep
ruby red color with garnet reflections. The extraction is very high and the
nose is amazingly intense and persistent. The bouquet includes powerful
aromas of cherry, licorice, spices and herbs. The palate is an explosion of
flavors: red and black fruit, nuts, spices, vanilla and a little earth. In
this Amarone high acidity marries big structure in a wonderfully harmonic
and balanced way. The finish is outstanding and incredibly long. This wine
is very elegant and powerful on all levels and it will age for many decades.
-Marco D'Ambrosio
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Clos du Bois Reserve Merlot 2004 (California) $22
Varietal(s): 91% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Malbec; dark ruby red
color; violets, ripe plum, mocha and blackberry aromas; black cherry, mocha
and toasty oak flavors; medium body; smooth, velvety finish. -Nick
Tomassi
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Jorge Ordonez Malaga Victoria #2 2005 (Spain) $50 375ml
And now for something completely different! Malaga is one of those old
school wines that if it is remembered at all, it is by octogenarian men in
dark paneled clubs in the bowels of a big European city. Turn the late,
great Alois Kracher of Austria loose, with the Spanish contacts of Jorge
Ordonez, and look out world. Made from ultra late harvest Muscat, it bursts
with ripe apricot, honeydew melon, yellow plum tart and of all things,
baklava. If you are a dessert wine freak, and even if you are not, this is a
masterpiece of winemaking that can sit right next to those well know
‘normal’ stickies and blow the doors off of most of them. Killer stuff. -Doug
Charles
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L’Ecole No. 41 PERIGEE 2005 (Washington) $49
Perigee is a Bordeaux style blend made from fruit sourced from
specific blocks located in the Seven Hills Vineyard. A blend of
56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc,
L’Ecole No. 41 produces another outstanding wine! Aromas of
cherry, black currant and cigar box are prominent on this wine’s
nose. The palate is balanced with elegant tannins. Sumptuous
flavors of black cherry, herbs and mineral deliver an amazing
finish. Drink now or cellar and enjoy later. –
Tom DiNardo
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Willakenzie Pinot Blanc 2005 (Oregon) $22
100% estate grown with only 6 acres planted, has produced one
outstanding white wine to consume now! Fermented in stainless
steel tanks and using no oak produces bright fruit aromas and
flavors with zesty citrus tones and crisp acidity. This Pinot
Blanc puts many Oregon Pinot Blanc to shame with its more classy
finish and flavor!
–Eric Awes
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