Squire Value Picks for May 2008
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Marquis-Phillips Roogle Shiraz 2006 (Australia) $10
All of you will remember that several years ago, this market was introduced
to an upstart Australian brand known as Marquis-Phillips. Shortly afterward,
the wines got huge press, and the brand became the little darling of the
Aussie wine world in the U.S. Fast forward a few years… Sarah and Sparky
have moved on to a new venture, the price has gone up, and now a third
winemaker has taken over the reins, Sarah and Sparky’s former assistant. To
fit into the price where the old wines were, a new line was introduced
called, appropriately enough, ‘Roogle’ (the mythical half kangaroo/half
eagle that adorns the label). The 2006 Roogle Shiraz is lush and fat, with
cassis, pepper, clove and cinnamon in the nose, and blackberry syrup and
Bing cherries in the finish. All at the silly price of $10. -Doug
Charles
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Dry Creek Vineyards Fumé
Blanc 2006 (California) $15
This 100% sauvignon blanc has a light straw color. The fresh grass, lemon
and grapefruit aromas are followed by citrus, lime and crushed stone
flavors. It has a medium body and crisp acidity on the finish. Very food
friendly. -Nick Tomassi
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Cline Ancient Vines Mourvèdre 2005 (California) $15
Cline Ancient Vines Mourvèdre has always been a great value wine from
California. This 2005 vintage has a mild purple-red color, high alcohol
content and 0.23% residual sugar. The grapes are sourced from the oldest
Mourvèdre vineyards available and yields are restricted to 2 to 3 tons per
acre. This juicy Rhone-style wine is full-bodied and delightful. The bouquet
is intense and persistent with strong notes of red flowers and ripe red
fruit. On the palate the wine shows plenty of plums and cherries, soft
tannins and a full mouth-feel. This 2005 Mourvèdre has good acidity and mild
minerality. A distinct aroma of chocolate can be perceived throughout the
tasting process. The wine was aged for 10 months in heavy toast American oak
(25% new). The finish is very persistent and slightly spicy. I would pair
this wine with pork dishes, lamb, sausages and even Pizza. -Marco
D'Ambrosio
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Rosenblum Petite Sirah “Heritage Clones” 2006
(California) $19
One of my favorite varietals when I “got the wine bug”, I have
not had a petite sirah this good in a long while! Petite Sirah, or Petite
Syrah (same thing!) can be a huge tannic wine, but also has almost Italian
rustic characteristics as well. This has both! It has up front blue
raspberry notes, but also has a lean, leatherlike note in the mid-palate,
finishing with notes of blueberry pie. Yum! –Andrew
Campbell
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Jean D’Aosque Sauvignon Blanc 2006 (France) $8
With all of the gloom and doom regarding the Euro and how the rising fuel
costs are impacting transportation costs for all goods, we are harder
pressed to find exceptional wine values, especially from France. Just when
all seems lost, along comes a simply delicious summer white from of all
places, France. The Jean D’Aosque Sauvignon Blanc 2006 is brimming with
lemon, lime, grapefruit and a dash of crisp tangerine. Absolutely delicious
and thirst quenching, with mouth watering acidity and a tangy finish.
Imagine ice cold lemonade on a hot summer day and you get the picture. -Doug
Charles
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Donnafugata Anthilia 2006 (Italy) $14
DonnaFugata is one of the best Sicilian producers and Anthilia is their
blend of 50% Cataratto and 50% Ansonica (also called Inzolia). The name
Donnafugata, literally “woman in flight,” refers to the history of the
Habsburg queen Maria Carolina who was the consort of Ferdinand IV of
Bourbon. In the initial years of the 19th century, she fled Naples and found
refuge a few miles from the estate’s vineyards. The history inspired the
effigy of the head of a woman with her hair tossed by the wind that
dominates the label of every bottle of Donnafugata. Anthilia is the name
given during the Roman period to the city of Entella. This wine has a
distinct personality. It is a perfect combination of Sicilian flavors: it is
dry and robust and yet complex and rich. On the nose the wine shows notes of
plums, apricots, citrus and yellow flowers. On the palate this 2006 Anthilia
is spicy, salty, round and very mineral. The finish is very intense and
persistent. I would pair this Cataratto / Ansonica blend with savory fish
dishes, shellfish and roasted vegetables. Anthilia is very Sicilian and it
pairs well with food that matches its rich and austere personality.
Excellent value. -Marco D'Ambrosio
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Solaire Chardonnay “Santa Lucia Highlands” 2006
(California) $14
A steal from the Santa Lucia Highlands, where Chardonnays
average more than twice this price! Piercing pear and apple flavors, with
great body, little oak and a smooth toasty finish make this a real winner. –Andrew
Campbell
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J. M. da Fonesca “Twin Vines” Vinho Verde NV (Portugal)
$9
This is a slightly spritzy blend of 42% Loureiro, 39% Trajadura
and 19% Pedema grapes. A pale straw color with a green hue. It has fresh
lemon, melon and green apple aromas and flavors, a light body and citrus
fruit on the finish. Food Pairing: salad, chicken, and rice dishes, seafood
and vegetable pasta dishes, shellfish and seafood. -Nick
Tomassi
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New Harbor Sauvignon Blanc 2007 (New Zealand) $14
Newcomer from New Zealand has hit the mark with its zippy and
crisp white from Marlborogh. This has zinging lemon and peach
notes, great notes of grass and jalapeño pepper and a crisp,
puckering finish. This is a great New Zealand style of sauvignon
blanc! –Andrew Campbell
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Castello Monaci Primitivo 2006 (Italy) $14
Primitivo, a relative of California’s Zinfandel, has the great
qualities of its cousin. With great up-front fruit of dark berry
and chocolate, you can tell the relation, but with its Italian
characteristics of focus, leanness and great acidity, you can
have with food. A wonderful wine! –Andrew
Campbell
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